E2: Oxford to Dorchester

Plan today was to walk down the Thames Path, 

 unfortunately it was a little wet so I had to find alternative routes.

Leaving the hostel I returned to the Oxford Canal and its junction with the River Thames. A hugely significant river as it runs through Britain's capital, London and has a central place in the kingdom's culture. It has its own long distance path, the Thames Path which is a National Trail. Today, following rain most days for the past six weeks the River's water level was very high. At the lock where boats left the canal for the river, red lights flashed to indicate that entry onto the fast flowing river, swollen by rain, was unwise. Too fast for the rowers who you can usually see practicing in their skiffs. Shortly after Osney Lock a sign stated that the towpath was closed due to flooding. There was a lady in an Environment Agency jacket at the lock holding a large test tube. She said I could get around the flooded section by walking through the nearby industrial estate, which I did leaving her to test the waters. With all the rain I suspect sewerage was being discharged into the river, not that you would want to bathe in the river today.

Walking out of Oxford the path was in generally good condition, well maintained for the many people who use it, although I had to splash one section where the water was flowing into the river from the adjacent fields. 

Near Kennington the metalled path, signed National Cycle Route 5 (NCR 5), turned away from the river. The Thames Path continued over a soggy area of grass, which was at a similar level to the water in the river. I soon came across an area of water covering the patg and much around. While I could paddle through I strongly suspected there would be much more water ahead of me. I decided it would both be safer and more enjoyable to follow the cycle route. This led me on a tarmaced route parallel to the railway. A couple confirmed that it would take me to Abingdon, a town where I could pick up the Thames Path again. I noticed that the "tarmac" used on some of these paths did not feel "hard" on the feet, it seemed have a little "give", as if there was some rubber in the mixture. On the lower ground to my left I could see the flood plain was in fact flooded, I suspected the Thames Path was at a line of trees which were sitting in water.

The nicely "tarmaced" cycle path ended in a new housing development and NCR 5 continued along a road through Radley, and me with it. I followed it as it continued on tracks by Radley Lakes, which were old gravel pits now full of water surrounded by scrappy young trees. Shortly after I arrived at Abingdon where I enjoyed a toasted sandwich (and cake) in a café in the centre, having walked through the Abbey gates (the abbey itself no longer exists).

I walked a little way along the Thames Path as it crossed a meadow south of Abingdon. Soon I encountered water across the path, with no way of avoiding it without filling my boots with water. I returned to the road, following it on the raised path beside it, called the Causeway with good reason. The stone edging suggested it was built to cross the water prone meadow a long time ago.

I returned to the Thames Path around the village of Culham, where it was on ground a little higher, although still beside the river. However after Culham the Path was again under water, so I followed the road to Clifton Hampden. Fortunately, although the road was busy, there was a pavement / cycle path beside it. This led me by the Culham Campus where Britain's fusion research is based.

At Clifton Hampden I viewed the Thames Path. In both directions it was under water. I had no choice but to continue along the road to Dorchester, where I had booked a room for the night.

E2: Charlbury to Oxford

My first sunny day of this trip!

Amazingly I did not need to visit the toilet last night. However, I probably disturbed the sleep of the others in the dormitory by getting up at 6:30 am. The early start was so that I could have breakfast and catch an early train back to Charlbury from Oxford where I was spending the night. Reaching Charlbury I was soon on my way, or at least I was once I had worked out how to get out of the station parking area!

As coffee shops were sparse today, I picked up a coffee from one in Charlbury before I left the village. As in the Cotswolds the village and others in the area were built largely out of yellow Jurassic limestone. The next village I walked through, Stonesfield was where stone "slates" were mined, that were traditionally used to tile the roofs around here. Despite the villages and landscape being similar to the Cotswolds, North Oxfordshire has not attracted such large numbers of tourists. 

One place tourists do visit is Blenheim Palace and its grounds. My path crossed the north end of the Blenheim Estate with its neat avenue of trees. Red kites (the birds) circled languidly overhead. My route after Stonesfield until I reached the Oxford Canal looked unusually straight on the map. I discovered this was because it was a Roman Road, now called Akeman Steet. At times this followed field boundaries, at other times it was enclosed between lines of small trees, part of it was along a minor road with many more cars than I might have expected. The road had lots of potholes, not up to Roman standards! The surrounding fields were neatly tilled, narrow lines of rich brown earth or lines of small green leaves. There was also much grass, looking exceptionally green in today's sunshine. Flocks of sheep looked like white blobs spread across the fields. Narrow stands of trees broke up the horizon.

Unlike yesterday, my walk on the Oxfordshire Way was over low hills so I was hoping that there would be no wading through water today. In this I was disappointed. There were a number of places where it was necessary to cross water, either accumulated in low spots or where watercourses had overflowed their banks. The most extensive and deepest area of water was around the River Cherwell, shortly before I left the Oxfordshire Way for the Oxford Canal. There was much flooding around the river and I had to wade through water which briefly reached my knees to reach the bridge over the main channel.

Once on the canal it was a long walk south on the towpath to Oxford. At first the towpath was in poor condition, bits of the bank had fallen into the river making the path between the water and hedging very narrow. As it was also slick with mud, care was needed to avoid slipping into the water. Although the towpath improved, for a stretch the canal joined the river. As the river was unusually high, a small part of the path was flooded. Later, in the approach to Oxford the towpath was tarmaced and much easier to walk on, although the many bicycles created another hazard. 

Being a Saturday people were out for a walk, alone or in couples, exercising their dog or just enjoying the sunshine. Beside the canal men stood fishing. Canal boats lined sections of the canal, including those in a permanent mooring. Some looked like they never moved, others looked uncared for, needing to be renovated or just tidied up. Among them smoke rose from the stove pipes of attractively painted boats, giving them a homely feel.

The sunlight had faded away when I finally reached the edges of Oxford. In the dusk the backs of houses looked attractive, the warm glow from their windows suggesting cosy interiors. Today is Valentines Day, and this evening, under the streetlights, the centre of Oxford was full of people, spilling onto the road, many clutching bunches of flowers. Pubs and restaurants were full to overflowing, although I managed to order a burger and chips in one of those places where you order via a touch screen. While waiting for the not very fast food to be prepared, I noticed the delivery motorcyclists were also doing a brisk trade. I left those enjoying  themselves in the city centre, after buying a newspaper purely so I could stuff it in my wet boots.

E2: Stow-on-the-Wold to Charlbury

Highlight of the day was finishing the Heart of England Way, lowlight was wading through water on the Oxfordshire Way.

After crossing several fields I soon arrived at Bourton-on-the-Water where the Heart of England Way finishes and the Oxfordshire Way starts (although I was still in Gloucestershire). There are numerous long distance paths in area such as the Macmillan Way, Monarch's Way, Gloucestershire Way, Wardens Way and Windrush Way. I often feel that efforts should be focused on maintaining and improving the existing "Ways" rather than creating new ones. I stopped at St Lawrence's Church, where admired the simple arches and gave thanks for reaching this far (I had my doubts back in Cannock Chase due to my knee pain). Bourton-on-the-Water is a tourist town of gift shops and of course tea shops, in one of which I indulged in a coffee and cruffin. The latter was for research purposes as I had not tried one before, unfortunately it was far too sweet.

Leaving Bourton-on-the-Water my troubles began. The path crossed the flood plain of the rivers Eye and Dikler. Flood plain was a relevant term as the rivers had flooded. A couple with a dog ahead of me decided to turn back, but I continued as the bridges over the rivers were still above water, it was just a matter of getting my feet wet wading through boot deep water using my trekking poles both for balance and checking the water depth ahead of me.

Fortunately the Oxfordshire Way then climbed through fields over a ridge. Unfortunately the track down the other side was all mud, churned up by 4 wheel drives or farm vehicles. Fences each side forced me to stay on this quagmire for much longer than I would have liked. At Bledington I had the good fortune to find a community shop and café where I enjoyed a bowl of soup for lunch. I tried not to leave too much mud.

For the remainder of my walk today the route followed the River Evenlode. Efforts were being made to rewild the flood plain, creating wetlands which will encourage wild fowl, sequester carbon and reduce flooding downstream. Unfortunately the lack of drainage meant I had to wade through a lot of standing water and a few temporary streams, as well as more mud. I began to wonder why they put the kissing gates in pools of water, and surround them with mud. 

At the entrance to one field there was a sign advising that dogs must be on a lead as there were ewes with lambs on the field, the once black letters had faded to yellow and the field was empty. I had seen similar signs on previous days. Leaving the signs up when there are no pregnant ewes, lambs or any other kind of sheep just encourages people to ignore them. There were a few horses beside the sheets of water occupying part of their fields. They looked bedraggled in the rain.

The flat fields around rivers like the Evenlode are called "water meadows" for a reason, there was certainly plenty of water on them now (in February). In the spring I am sure they will look beautiful with many colourful wild flowers, but today's colours were all dull greens, browns and greys. As I approached Charlbury the sky was becoming increasingly grey. My planned walk today was a long one and darkness was falling. The headlights of cars in the village emphasised the darkness around me. I had not been able to find suitable accommodation in the Charlbury so I caught a train into Oxford. I was lucky that I had only a few minutes to wait, just enough time to buy a ticket and put a layer of clothing back on. The temperatures were rapidly dropping now the sun had set and with the forecast change in weather. Tomorrow should be cold and sunny.

To keep costs down I am staying in a backpackers' hostel tonight. I am hoping I do not have to get up too much in the night, disturbing the others in the dormitory. Tomorrow I will catch a train back to Charlbury then walk back to Oxford.

E2: Mickleton to Stow-on-the-Wold

Today the scenery changed, there were hills to climb and villages built of Cotswold stone.

As I walked through Mickleton I was struck by the change in building materials. For the previous week houses were built of red brick with clay tile roofs, but in Mickleton and the other villages today, all I could see were buildings made of Cotswold stone; a honey coloured limestone, with shades varying from cream to orange. Older roofs were even made of stone "tiles". Even modern buildings seemed have walls of Cotswold Stone, possibly because the local planning department insisted. It gave the villages I walked through a warm, golden glow, despite the rain! One of the early villages was Chipping Campden. Popular with tourists there were gift shops and a tea room I patronised. 

I was blessed with a number of cafés today. For lunch I had a sandwich at Batsford Park. One day I would like to return (when it is not raining) and visit the arboretum and gardens. After I walked down a section of the long, tree lined drive. A Longborough there was a community café and shop, where I was the only customer. The tea and toasted tea cake set me up for the last section of the day.

There had been more hills today than in recent days. In better weather there would have been good views, but today's drizzle washed out the colours and softened the lines. On an early escarpment top, an image of a Belgian soldier was carved in a tree. A sign suggested it was carved by a Belgian soldier, recovering at a nearby hospital, in the First World War.

Dinner tonight was at my hotel, one of those places where the prices are larger than the portions. There seemed to be gold leaf on top of my dessert. I decided against eating it, worried about what I might find in the morning.

E2: Alcester to Mickleton

Rain, but also a little sunshine today, and cake at a café!

As their food was so imaginative I walked into Alcester town centre this morning for breakfast at Chapter 23, the place I had lunch at yesterday. This morning I ate a smoked salmon and cheese omelette listening to the locals.

The first village I reached was Wixford. It had an ancient church but I was more interested in the horse house. A structure with a thatched roof and walls made of gorse used to house the horse of the visiting vicar. I had not seen another like it. Soon after I encountered a modest waterfall, not something I expected in the flat or gently undulating terrain.

Bideford-on-Avon had a café, although it took me a while to find as I thought I remembered from the map where it was, but I was wrong. On eventually locating it I enjoyed a latte and muffin while amusing myself glancing through one of the books available for customers. It was a satirical look at men's dress habits and manners. I passed the edges of several other villages today, but none with coffee shops as far as I was aware. 

My route led me through part of the Heart of England Forest, or at least what will one day be a forest when the trees have grown a bit. For a while the sun shone, enriching the greens of the fields.

After a few particularly muddy fields, where I think sheep had chewed up the ground digging up turnips, I arrived at Mickleton. A small milestone as it is the "Gateway to the Cotswolds", an area of hills and scenic villages which I will be walking through for the next two days. The hotel I am staying at is evidently a cut above the average as there are biscuits with the room's tea making facilities, or rather there were until shortly after my arrival. There is also a TV remote that sometimes works, and the dinner was good if on the expensive side. The dessert, a fruit and ginger pudding with custard was especially nice, if a bit fattening.

E2: Henley-in-Arden to Alcester

A short walk today to give my knee a rest.

Only 13 kilometres to walk today, just over 3 hours walking. I needed a shorter day as my left knee was suffering. It was having to work hard to correct the tendency for my foot to slip on the ubiquitous mud. After tarrying over breakfast I left Henley to cross many muddy fields, pausing to collect another coffee from a lonely trailer by the railway station. Today there was woodland stretches as well as farmland. Skeletal oaks stood black against the dirty grey, overcast sky, their leaves discarded on the path and among the brambles. Soon the blackened leaves would turn to leaf mold, enriching the soil. Moss growing on exposed tree roots and ivy climbing trees were the only greens. 

The fields in this area were large, some with long lines of green shoots, others were of yellowing grass on which occasional sheep grazed, and a desultory pair of horses. Fields were edged with hawthorn hedges, their leafless branches covered in yellow and sage green lichen. I disturbed a gaggle of Canada geese on one field. On seeing my approach they started to honk among themselves before sidling off reluctantly. 

On the approach to Alcester I saw the only person aside from myself out for a walk today in the drizzling day. Her dog took exception to my trekking poles, which I found essential to keep me upright in the slippery, sliding mud.

To early for my hotel I walked into the historic centre of Alcester. The old,  half-timbered houses were distorted by age, leaning into the street. I found a cafe for lunch, an unusual combination of poached eggs, bits of bacon, chilli jam and melted cheese on crumpets (crumpet of the type called English Muffins). Then it was off to my hotel, to watch some of the Winter Olympics. 

E2: Meriden to Henley-in-Arden

A day with no rain!

Today I passed another construction site for the HS2, high-speed railway. Unlike the sites I passed on Saturday this one had loads of lorries going in all directions. The path had been diverted. Shepherded by steel-mesh barriers and red and white plastic I was led across the construction site. Frequent traffic lights controlled my movement. Stacked white portacabins looked down on me. Two bridges looked almost complete. Red mud embankments could be seen in all directions. A huge pile of gravel was being amassed. Then I was back in large waterlogged fields, including a few with the remains of Brussels sprout plants after they had been harvested, the smell was distinctive, reminding me of my mother's Sunday dinners.

A high point today, pulling me forward despite an painful knee, was lunch at Baddesley Clinton, a National Trust property. The lady on reception seemed a disappointed that I was more interested in the whereabouts of the cafe than visiting the 15th Century manor house. It looked an attractive place to investigate in the future. The M40 crossing marked another milestone in my journey today.

Over the last few days most buildings have been of a dull red brick with tiled roofs, including the large farmhouses I passed. However, the churches have been of a weathered sandstone, with solid towers, surrounded by graveyards with leaning gravestones and large drifts of white snowdrops. Today five churches were on my route. I admired the one at Berkswell with its sundial, clock, unusual porch and crypt. I visited the latter by climbing down stairs hidden in a boxed pew. The final church I visited (after a slippery climb up and down a steep hill) was at the entrance to Henley-in-Arden. It was clearly of Norman age with its curved arches and muted decoration. 

Henley-in-Arden was in a contrast to the plain red brick houses I had encountered, its high street seemed full of ancient half-timbered buildings. For example I am lodging in the White Swan pub, which is a 16th Century coaching inn. It was busy when I arrived, a "Wake" was being held.