After a long period renovating an old property I returned to my walk on a possible route for the E2 through Northern Ireland. My confidence in completing my planned five week trip was not great. Despite working hard pulling down ceilings, scrapping off wallpaper, making tradesmen cups of coffee and the like I was a few kilos overweight, maybe due to the Belgian Buns I had gained the habit of eating for elevenses, (along with the chocolate biscuits intended for the workmen). In the last month or so I had few opportunities for long walks and was feeling unfit, unready for days of hiking. My last trip of any length was at the start of July, when an opportunity to visit Austria arose. Sadly my walking was limited to a few days as I fell ill. However I did complete a respectable 29 kilometres and a 1700m total ascent on my second day in the Alps and still managed a third day of walking, but that was over two months ago.
In addition to lack of fitness I continue to have discomfort from my left knee (arthritis and the effect of an old injury). It creaks alarmingly when bent, as if seized by rust after years of lying idle. Indeed both knees become stiff if I sit too long, making them move again is painful. Not a good start for a long walk. I never know if such walks make my knee worse or better, I only know that I do not plan to be idle for the remainder of my life.
Bristol airport was a good advert for the railways, with long delays for security, a consequence of having only two of the many security machines in operation. However, the train and ferry to Belfast was considerably more expensive, would have taken longer, and risked being cancelled by strikes in an endless industrial dispute.
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| Coleraine town centre looking towards Town Hall. |
My flight to Belfast was followed by a bus to Antrim and a train to Coleraine. Wandering through the town along the pedestrianised streets I reached the handsome, yellow stone town hall. There I noticed directions to a book of condolences for Queen Elizabeth who died just a few days ago. While views may vary on the monarchy the death of the queen after reigning for so many years is undoubtedly a historic occasion. Certainly she has brought joy to many people. Some years ago she stopped at the old people's home where my wife worked bringing much excitement and happiness to its elderly residents. I signed the book after a white haired lady who was struggling to walk, and wondered what happens to all these books of condolences? Are the signatures counted as a measure of the stature of the queen? Are they archived for research by future generations?
With such thoughts I progressed along the road to Portstewart. Much of the way was beside the busy A2 road. WalkNI the body responsible for the path classed this as a "link" section and advised avoiding it by using public transport. However, there was pavement or cycle path all the way, so the walk was not at all hazardous. This year's hot dry summer has ended and there was a cool wind and some drizzle. Tractors went by with trailers loaded with freshly cut grass, green from recent rains. Gradually the lower stretches of the River Bann came into view on my left.
After the Portstewart sign and some houses the Ulster Way left the main road and at the end of a long sandy beach, joined the Causeway Coast Path. This last section was a joy to walk as it kept close to the edge of the sea where the waves crashed on rocks of basalt, before rising up the side of the cliff and eventually depositing me on a shop lined street in the centre of Portstewart, where it ran alongside the sea. From there it was a short walk to my bed at Rick's Causeway Independent Hostel, followed by a shower and dinner at a friendly if noisy pub. (I have noticed that the word "Causeway" is attached to many things in the area, even the local council has the word in its name).
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| Causeway Coast Path around Portstewart |
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