Stranraer to Balmurrie Fells: E2 Day 39

A sunny day to start the Southern Upland Way.

Although the Southern Upland Way does not pass through Stranraer, it comes very close, so I soon joined it beyond the town's suburban fringes. My walk this morning was along single lane roads and forest tracks by fields of grass and deciduous woodland. Many trees were blown down in last winter's storms, I passed a crew cutting them up and loading the timber onto a lorry. A helpful workman directed me around the work (far more useful than "No Unauthorised Entry" signs).

Pleasant walking through woodland.

My guidebook emphasised that I should not miss Castle Kennedy's gardens. My route took me up the drive of the estate passed the entrance to the gardens. Their proximity and, more importantly, the presence of a tea shop, encouraged me to make a short diversion. The lady on reception let me leave my rucksack with her so after a thick slice of Orange and Poppy seed cake with my coffee, I made a tour of the recommended sights. In the walled garden many flowers were still in bloom, more than I expected so late in the year. Paths intersected each other to give numerous colourful vistas. Outside the walled garden there were avenues of mature trees planted in the 18th and 19th century. One of the avenues was lined with monkey puzzle trees, their height made it apparent that they should never be planted in suburban gardens. Castle Kennedy itself was a large ruined "tower house" from the 16th century. A type of building that could be defended from a raiding party, this one was ruined by an accidental fire.

Castle Kennedy.

After Castle Kennedy the nature of the route changed. Leaving the roads it followed paths through woodland and over moors. With the sun shining through the trees of beech and sycamore and the blue scabious flowers among the moorland rushes it was an attractive walk. Posts with yellow tops and a thistle symbol marked where the trail went at the key points. Boards helped me over streams and a river was crossed by a simple suspension bridge. A ruined farmstead populated by sheep provided some passing interest.

Path through the reeds.

I wanted to camp away from farmhouses. Although wild camping is legal in Scotland I did not want to upset any farmers. In addition I did not want a cow to accidentally step on my tent. So I am now camped well away from any farm or habitation on moorland close to a large wind farm. Although there is a slight wind, it is not enough to keep the gnats away, so I have retreated to my tent for tea. Just as well as the temperature is dropping rapidly. Next to my tent is an information board put up by the electricity company responsible for the wind farm. It pointed out that the land had changed over the last 6000 years. The original woodland has long since been replaced and the scene in front of me was now moorland. They used a long barrow, (which looked like a mound of stone) visible in the distance, as an example of an earlier culture. As I prepared for sleep the sound of the wind turbine blades gently turning mingled with the "baas" of the sheep and the wind flapping the canvas of the tent.