After crossing several fields I soon arrived at Bourton-on-the-Water where the Heart of England Way finishes and the Oxfordshire Way starts (although I was still in Gloucestershire). There are numerous long distance paths in area such as the Macmillan Way, Monarch's Way, Gloucestershire Way, Wardens Way and Windrush Way. I often feel that efforts should be focused on maintaining and improving the existing "Ways" rather than creating new ones. I stopped at St Lawrence's Church, where admired the simple arches and gave thanks for reaching this far (I had my doubts back in Cannock Chase due to my knee pain). Bourton-on-the-Water is a tourist town of gift shops and of course tea shops, in one of which I indulged in a coffee and cruffin. The latter was for research purposes as I had not tried one before, unfortunately it was far too sweet.
Leaving Bourton-on-the-Water my troubles began. The path crossed the flood plain of the rivers Eye and Dikler. Flood plain was a relevant term as the rivers had flooded. A couple with a dog ahead of me decided to turn back, but I continued as the bridges over the rivers were still above water, it was just a matter of getting my feet wet wading through boot deep water using my trekking poles both for balance and checking the water depth ahead of me.
Fortunately the Oxfordshire Way then climbed through fields over a ridge. Unfortunately the track down the other side was all mud, churned up by 4 wheel drives or farm vehicles. Fences each side forced me to stay on this quagmire for much longer than I would have liked. At Bledington I had the good fortune to find a community shop and café where I enjoyed a bowl of soup for lunch. I tried not to leave too much mud.
For the remainder of my walk today the route followed the River Evenlode. Efforts were being made to rewild the flood plain, creating wetlands which will encourage wild fowl, sequester carbon and reduce flooding downstream. Unfortunately the lack of drainage meant I had to wade through a lot of standing water and a few temporary streams, as well as more mud. I began to wonder why they put the kissing gates in pools of water, and surround them with mud.
At the entrance to one field there was a sign advising that dogs must be on a lead as there were ewes with lambs on the field, the once black letters had faded to yellow and the field was empty. I had seen similar signs on previous days. Leaving the signs up when there are no pregnant ewes, lambs or any other kind of sheep just encourages people to ignore them. There were a few horses beside the sheets of water occupying part of their fields. They looked bedraggled in the rain.
The flat fields around rivers like the Evenlode are called "water meadows" for a reason, there was certainly plenty of water on them now (in February). In the spring I am sure they will look beautiful with many colourful wild flowers, but today's colours were all dull greens, browns and greys. As I approached Charlbury the sky was becoming increasingly grey. My planned walk today was a long one and darkness was falling. The headlights of cars in the village emphasised the darkness around me. I had not been able to find suitable accommodation in the Charlbury so I caught a train into Oxford. I was lucky that I had only a few minutes to wait, just enough time to buy a ticket and put a layer of clothing back on, as the temperatures were rapidly dropping now the sun had gone.
To keep costs down I am staying in a backpackers' hostel tonight. I am hoping I do not have to get up too much in the night, disturbing the others in the dormitory. Tomorrow I will catch a train back to Charlbury then walk back to Oxford.
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