Thursday, May 4, 2023

Hook of Holland to Maassluis: E2 Day 100

Holland looked lovely today in the sunshine as I visited woods, fields and attractive towns where houses lined the canals.

In the Netherlands the E2 officially follows the LAW 5-1 long distance path, also called the Nederlands Kustpad, marked with continental red and white waymarks, however unofficially it is referred to as the GR5 (which starts in Belgium and continues to Nice) and the guidebook I was following exclusively speaks of the GR5. Either way I had 138 kilometres of the Netherlands to follow crossing the large Delta of the Rhine and Maas rivers in the south west of the country.

On disembarking from the overnight ferry from Harwich, England, while waiting for passports to be examined I chatted with some Dutch people. I felt like a child asking them how to say good morning (goedemorgen) and thank you (dank je) in Dutch. Normally I would have revised this during my pre-trip planning but I was distracted by renovations to our house. Following the red and white waymarks of the LAW 5-1 today was also a bit of a childish game, looking at all the posts to see if there was any sign of one. In general the waymarking was pretty good, although at times I needed to consult my GPS.

The waymarks started at a finger post at the train station by the ferry terminal. Three directions were marked and they covered the E8 and E9 European Long Distance Trails as well as the E2. The  LAW 5-1 and GR5 were also referenced so it was a pretty comprehensive sign to start my journey. I quickly left the waymarks to divert for a coffee at a nearby shopping centre, before entering woodland on the official trail.

It was not to be the only woods today. Although the landscape in the area was very ordered and planned, with straight drainage channels and neat houses, some places were allowed to grow wild. In such areas, beside winding tarmac or gravel paths, there were sycamore saplings and more mature oak and beech trees. Half hidden among the trees there were a few pillboxes left by the Germans from the last war, they now make ideal bat "caves". Cow parsley, comfrey, dandelions, bluebells and stichwort lined the paths which were populated by dogs taking their owners for a walk and a fewer joggers. Beyond the woods there were acres of greenhouses, the ones nearby were growing tomatoes. 

Woodland by the path.

Much of the walk was on straight cycle tracks by fields, roads and scattered houses. Bicycles of all kinds passed me, I was careful to keep to the side of the track to avoid a collision as fast riders raced by. Mopeds, scooters and mobility scooters also used the tarmac paths and cycle tracks, creating additional hazards. Many wind turbines were visible and I also saw a few traditional windmills today.

Part of the route, was on the banks of the Nieuwe Waterweg. Commercial vessels were constantly sailing up and down this water way, which leads to Rotterdam and rivers beyond, carrying containers and bulk liquids. Larger vessels, with a high bridge looked like sea going vessels, although not as large as the container ships I saw at Felixstowe yesterday, they still created large waves in their wakes, causing swans and ducks near the bank to rapidly bob up and down. Smaller vessels with a low height, like large barges, were I assumed river traffic, maybe heading up the Rhine, their reduced  height making it possible for them to pass under bridges. There were also a few dredgers, needed to keep the water ways open. Beyond the Nieuwe Waterweg on the opposite bank there were lines of tank farms and refineries. I could also see large ships on some parallel channel beyond.

Vessel on the Nieuwe Waterweg. 

Although my destination for the day was the town of Maassluis, the LAW 5-1 headed north on reaching its outskirts, taking me into fields used for cattle. Eventually I was brought to the small town of Maasland, a pretty place with the houses lining a canal. I stopped at a coffee cum bric-a-brac shop for a latte and slice of apple tart. The friendly couple running it seemed keen to hear what their lone customer was doing.

Canal in Maasland.

I continued beside the canal through housing into the centre of Maassluis, spotting a few great crested grebes on the water and disturbing a heron which I had not expected so closing to housing. The town seemed a busy place with lots of boats moored up, such as old tugs. Hotel Maassluis is right next to the Nieuwe Waterweg so I can see ships from my bedroom window.

Canal in Maassluis.

In the evening I returned to a part of town with a square of pavement cafes. Picking a bar I ordered a Schnitzel for my evening meal, it being the only thing on the Dutch menu I recognised. At eight o'clock conversation in the busy bar area fell silent for two minutes. It was May 4th "Commemoration of the Dead Day", like Britain's Remembrance day, but on a different date. It commemorates all who died in the Second World War and in subsequent conflicts.

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