Return to Maastricht and on to Visé: Day 118 & 119

A complicated train journey back to Maastricht followed by a long, hot day in the sun among hills with three interesting sights.

My return to Maastricht involved four different trains. I made sure I had plenty of time between them, including enough time to walk across central London for some exercise on an otherwise sedentary day, but still, the 22 platforms of Brussels Midi created some concern, especially as there was a late platform change for my train to Liège. As it approached eleven o'clock at night there was another challenge. Due to some problem the last part of my journey to Maastricht was by bus, I need not have worried, station staff made sure the four of us on the train found the bus.

Liège railway station at night where I had to figure out why my train was displayed as going only to Visé and not Maastricht.

Next day the blue skies and morning sun dressed the handsome city in a flattering light, as cyclists made their way to work. Unfortunately, as is common on the first day of a long trip my bowels were protesting the change of country. Nevertheless I was soon on the GR5 beside a small, tree lined river, in a green meadow in the suburbs. The small print on the red and white waymarks reminded me that Nice was still a long way away.

After admiring lines of vines on the valley sides and fields of healthy looking maize, I started my first climb. Today, and for many days to come, there will be hills, low hills, wooded hills, gentle hills but hills nevertheless, a contrast to the flat, Flanders plain I crossed on my last trip.

From the top of the hill I looked down on my first sight. A quarry, a disused one. Many people do not like quarries and with good reason, they are dusty and noisy, but once worked out they provide an opportunity for many things. Here it is a nature reserve, the cliffs and pools providing diverse habitats. Various viewing points and platforms with "pay for" telescopes and information boards (in Flemish) dotted the path. On climbing down long flights of stainless steel stairs into the bowl of the large workings I realized that the tall openings I could see were where they had mined the limestone rock "room and pillar" style. Accessible entrances were boarded up but I imagined a large network of high, interlocking corridors in which one could easily become lost. There was still a complete cement factory beside the workings, maybe they were also digging out rock elsewhere, although today it did not appear in operation. Beside the industrial buildings a café was doing a steady trade and I stopped for a cappuccino. 

ENCI-groeve quarry as seen from an observation point.

Continuing my crossing of hills a conical steel column discreetly advertised my re-entry into Belgium. Following a round about route typical of the GR5 I again reached the Albert canal, an old friend from my last trip, crossing it on a white bridge. My next sight was Fort Eben-Emael, an underground network of tunnels and bunkers with armoured artillery positions, anti tank and machine guns. Designed to be impregnable against a land attack, German paratroopers put it out of action within hours by an audacious landing of gliders on the ground above as part of a combined air and ground assault. Such tactics were new as were the shaped charges, used for the first time to cut through the armour protecting gun positions and observation posts.

Fort Eben-Emael tunnel.

My third sight was a tower with sculptures of fantastical winged animals on its roof. The building was open but as I had far to go today I did not look into its flint museum. 

Tour d'Eben Ezer.

My route, a mixture of quiet roads, farm tracks and paths crossed open hills, where the sun, reflected off the bleached road or track surface, heated my face and ears despite my wide brimmed hat protecting me from direct sunlight. My face and hands were slippery with sweat and sun tan lotion. Fortunately much of the path had partial shade from roadside trees and buildings, and I particularly enjoyed the cool of a tree lined path beside the small River Geer, with its green underwater weeds stretched out by the flow.

Although the GR5 skirted a number of villages today it avoided passing through the centre of most, and I was unable to buy any lunch or refreshments, relying on back up supplies and my water bottle. Consequently the latter was almost empty as I approached the Albert Canal for a second time today, depleted by my need for water with the temperatures in the low 30's. So when I saw a supermarket I bought two cans of soft drink and rapidly emptied them. Then after a final section by the water side I reached Visé and my hotel for the night.

My knee is suffering from the 34 kilometre day made necessary by limited accommodation options. Increasingly B&B's are only accepting two night stays, not suitable for long distance walkers. I assume this is to save having to change and wash sheets every night. Provided the cost is clear up front I prefer the approach I have seen on Airbnb where a cleaning fee is charged once per stay. More expensive for one night stays but it compensates owners for the cleaning costs. My knee is now in a tubeygrip which I hope will prevent any swelling. 

PS lovely meal of chicken with a tarragon sauce for diner at the hotel.

Route of my planned trip from Maastricht to Belfort.