The GR5, part of the E2, in the Vosges falls into two parts. In the north the path is a through mixed forest with a few chateaux, mostly in ruins and outcrops of red sandstone. South of Ribeauville much of the path is on open ridges above the forested slopes giving better views although the path may be strewn with granite blocks. Although there is much walking through trees, these are not big commercial plantations of Sitka Spruce, but a mixture of conifers and deciduous trees like beech, birch and oak. With the sun shining through their leaves they make a delightful sight. Throughout there are reminders of two World Wars, from a Nazi concentration camp to trenches from the First World War. The dead fill many cemeteries.
Not content with following the ridge line, the GR5 drops down to several towns in valleys or on the edge of the plain to the east. These are attractive towns whose narrow cobbled streets house half timbered houses with shutters and plaster work of different colours. The larger towns have hotels however in many places I had difficulty finding available accommodation, especially on Saturday nights. Campsites often closed at the end of September (I was walking through in October) and any refuge marked on the map was likely to be closed. I did find one Gite d'Etape on my route open and maybe there were others if I looked in the right place. So I spent two nights wild camping although in areas there were many signs indicating it was not allowed. The GR5 is well marked by the Club Vosgien with red rectangles and benches and shelters are periodically provided.
Link to start of blog is here
Link to start of Vosges is here
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