Belle Roche to Schirmeck: Day 144

Into true mountain country, climbing up to the summit of Le Donon then down to Schirmeck. It left me a little tired.

Before leaving my camping spot I again admired the view from the red sandstone rocks of Belle Roche. The surrounding green, tree covered mountain reminded me of a photo taken from the Appalachian Trail in the USA from a similar outcrop. Soon after I had started out on the trail again I disturbed a family of wild boar. On hearing me they rushed off to the left, all except one piglet. He was somewhere to my right, I could hear his snuffling. Then the hairy creature rushed across the path in front of me to join his family. My route for the next four and half hours was upward to a greater or lesser degree on tracks and paths through mixed woodland of spruce, birch, beech and unexpectedly (to me) sweet chestnut trees each protected by a triangular fence. Periodically there was some item to break up the journey: a shelter and bench, a cross, a road, a car park and an information board describing the fierce fighting that took place here in 1914.

As I approached the summit of Le Donon, the path swung left and right as it strove to climb the steep gradient. Large rocks on the final section required added dexterity to clamber over or around them and avoid the many people coming the other way, often with their dogs. Finally at the top the Temple of Donon greeted me. Not an ancient structure, it was built in 1869, however Gallo-Roman remains have been found in the area.

Temple of Donon (19th century).

View from summit of Le Donon.

Having reached the top I admired the panorama of endless, green, tree covered mountains and the plains beyond to the west. Then after a snack from my supplies it was time to descend. Initially the path was rocky and irregular and my knee suffered. Steps had been constructed near the top but were too deep to be kind to my joints. In time the track become more accommodating however the damage was done and my knee was painful on the long descent into Schirmeck.

I had wondered if there might be a café at Col du Donon. The GR5 did not take me past one and only a couple of hotels were marked on Google which I did not consider worth pursuing, so I spent the hours of my descent through the forest hoping for a Salon du The at Schirmeck. Google was not promising but as I walked the streets of the town I spotted just the place. Soon I was sitting down with a coffee, a cheese and ham pretzel (!) and a Mille-feuille pastry. My peace was disturbed by a succession of powerful motorbikes, generally in groups several riders strong, that were passing through the town and motoring up the winding road to the Col du Donon. Noisy when accelerating and their exhausts popping when they turned down the throttle I gained the impression that many were middle aged men in leathers trying to regain their youth. You could argue I was doing the same, fighting my age my continuing to walk long distances, but at least I do so quietly. 

Suitably refreshed I checked into my Airbnb, nodding thoughtfully as the landlady told me many things in French that I did not fully understand. A small apartment and lacking a washing machine I set to work in the sink washing my clothes. As it was Sunday tomorrow when the Supermarkets were closed I then visited one to stock up on lunch snacks. Jobs done for now I was the first to arrive at a proper French restaurant for a three course dinner with wine and a digestif. A reward for some long days walking.