Lachapelle-sous-Chaix to Belfort and home: Day 157 & 158

Lakes, wooded hills, farmland and villages followed by a canal walk into Belfort for a long bus journey home.

After leaving my chambre d'hôte at Lachapelle-sous-Chaix, the trail took me by a series of lakes. In their calm waters the colours of trees were reflected, tinged with autumnal colours, and beyond them the blue-grey of the Vosges mountains that I have lately crossed. A few herons stood still while mallards quacked and swans swam serene.

Looking over one of the many lakes back towards the Vosges mountains. 

The flat tracks around the lakes were a pleasant change from the mountains of recent days however there was a hill ahead and the GR5 was soon wiggling up its wooded slope. At the top was Fort Salbert, one of a series of fortifications built at the end of the 19th century surrounding Belfort, protecting the gap between the Vosges and Jura mountains. Although I could only walk around the outside from its commanding position I could see the Vosges to the north and my next range of mountains, the Jura to the south. A sign showed the summits that were visible on a clear day, including Mont Blanc which the GR5 passes by, but I was unable to spot it in the blue distance today. Belfort was spread out to the south east but my route did not take me there directly.

I progressed through farmland, woods and villages. The villages were more like those in Lorraine than the closely packed half timbered buildings I had seen in Alsace. As in Lorraine houses frequently had "barn doors" with rounded arches, as well as the usual church, war memorial, Mairie and lavoir. A split in the GR5 allows you to either head into Belfort and to the TGV station beyond, or divert to the west of the town, which is the route followed by the E2. Although I took the E2 alternative, I had considered using the TGV (Train Grand Vitesse) to return home, however booking at this late stage proved an exorbitant expense. Instead I decided on the overnight bus to Paris from Belfort. 

Heading south the Jura mountains ahead.

As the bus did not leave until almost midnight I decided to walk to Châtenois-les-Forges which is to the south of the city then turn around and walk northwards back towards Belfort's centre. This last section included a pleasant walk beside a tree lined canal as well as walking on the verge of a busy road, something I should have avoided by keeping to cycle paths.

Canal path into Belfort. 

Although too late to visit the tourist sites, I could see the citadel on the hill, and the lion statue bathed in purple floodlights. Deciding that the old town was the best place to find a leisurely meal I headed for the Place d'Armes. This bustling square was full of people at tables enjoying an evening drink. On one of the nearby streets I found a restaurant more focused on food, which it transpired had a Middle Eastern menu. With many of the other customers avoiding alcohol I did not feel out of place having a Coke. I wanted to be alert as I had to find the bus stop and catch it late at night in an unknown neighbourhood. 

Citadel and Lion.

The bus stop was near the city's railway station. There were no seats or other facilities and the area was poorly lit. As I still had a few hours to wait I found a seat at the railway station which also had good lighting and a toilet. Two lads with a bottle of vodka were trying to arrange something with two ladies otherwise my wait was uneventful. 

After over six hours on a full bus I arrived at Bercy Seine station in Paris where I had 90  minutes before my next bus. I was impressed by how awful the concrete, underground bus station was. Both toilets were closed so I am sure the adjacent park had a bit of a watering. The park benches were occupied by sleeping people and inside the bus station the very few seats were occupied, no café just a few vending machines. Most of the space was used by buses, so the crowds of people filled the narrow strip left for them, mainly standing or walking up and down waiting for the screens to show at which quay their bus would be. As the station was very long they might need to walk a couple of hundred metres to reach their bus, with wandering people and their many suitcases getting in the way. The buses left on time whether you made it or not.

From Paris a more lightly occupied bus took me to the marginally better London Victoria Coach Station. As the bus went by ferry there was a pleasant interlude on the boat as we crossed the channel. A final bus took me home to reunite with my wife (and dogs). 22 hours of travelling and I was ready for bed!