Scarborough to Filey: E2 Day 69

A sunny day through holiday towns, by beaches and on cliff top paths.

I began by climbing up to Scarborough Castle ruins. Dating from the 12th century the castle has a prominent, and for medieval warfare, an easily defensible position. Turner, the artist, was inspired by the romantic ruins, making several watercolours of them. Unfortunately the portcullis was down when I reached its gates, and not due to open until later in the day, so I continued on my way down to Scarborough's small harbour. Around the promenade that bordered the beach, the streets were full of ice cream stalls, fish and chip shops, gift shops and amusement arcades fighting for the tourists' money. For the visitor looking for something more adventurous fishing expeditions and speedboat rides were on offer ("speed, beauty and power" the advert claimed). Scarborough has long been a tourist town, especially with the arrival of the railway in the 19th century. I saw an advert for a donkey ride beneath the massive Victorian Grand Hotel, but no donkeys, a pity as this would have fitted the image of an old British holiday resort along with the old funicular railway carrying people up and down the cliff.

Scarborough, the Grand Hotel is to the left.

The curve of sand was a long one and I followed it to its rocky end on the Cleveland Way. A detour was advised at high tide at the end of the beach but the tide was well out as I walked by. The next few miles were somewhat up and down with steps to assist in places. I was walking on some wooded slopes as well as beside fields and caravan parks. At one point a man on a bicycle stopped to point out the remains of a trawler that had been wrecked on the rocks. Only its boiler was visible and only now it was low tide. Cayton beach spread out beside me for a while, another long expanse of sand.

Path approaching Cayton beach.

People on the beach as seen from the cliff top path.

As I hiked the final miles of cliff top, Scarborough was intermittently visible behind me, getting progressively smaller. The town could still be seen from Filey Brigg, a sliver of land poking out into the sea, blessed with drifts of daffodils on one side. Filey Brigg also marked the end of the Cleveland Way and the start of the Yorkshire Wolds Way, the next part of the E2, which will take me inland tomorrow. A stone sculpture with the National Trails Acorn marked the beginning and end of these trails.

Like Scarborough, Filey was another tourist town, with a long curving promenade, sandy beach, fast food, ice cream and gift shops. On the south side of town I thought the Crescent Gardens looked particularly attractive, with beds of hyacinths, backed by a terrace of grand, white Victorian houses.

Filey.

As the weather is fine and to save a few pounds I am camping tonight. A lonely tent, most people preferring the comfort of motorhomes and caravans.