Whitby to Scarborough: E2 Day 68

A long day on the cliff tops with weather better than on recent days.

I had a choice today, a two or three hour walk to Robin Hood's Bay or a 21 mile walk to Scarborough there being no available accommodation between. Choosing the latter option I was soon leaving the romantic ruins of Whitby Abbey behind. Patches of sunshine brightened the day in contrast to the recent grey days. The foam of the breaking waves was turned a brilliant white against a grey sea.

Whitby Abbey, the ruins date from the 13th century but the original monastery was founded in 657 and was an important religious centre.

Again almost all the day was along a path on edge of the cliffs. Near Whitby flowers and notes to deceased family members had been tied to the fence. Was this another place chosen by those who wished to end their life? 

In places there was a terrace, a flatter area half way down the cliff, maybe where a layer of softer rock had eroded more quickly. Such terraces were clothed with bracken, grass and small trees. In other parts, I could see a flat area of rock, cut by the waves, extending out from the bottom of the cliff, only visible as the tide was out. Rocky coves, only accessible by the sea, looked like places seals might visit. I looked but could not see any. Gulls hung on the rising air by the cliffs. I speculated as to whether they were looking for food or just enjoying the sensation of flight? Then I thought of the gulls looking at me and others walking along the path and thinking the same thoughts. The path had some very muddy sections, I could see the marks made by sliding feet, and carefully placed my own to avoid slipping over. There were several flights of steps, down one side of steep sided valleys and up the other sides. Due to the height of some of the steps I was having trouble bending my knees enough to safely descend them. Sights of interest included the remains of a Second World War radar station, vital for detecting approaching bombers. I could see waves breaking on offshore reefs so I was not surprised to see a lighthouse. There were several benches beside the path, some dedicated to departed loved ones. One dedicated to the president of the Scarborough Ramblers even had a little garden planted behind it with solar powered lights for any visitors after dark.

Cleveland Way. 

I reached Robin Hood's Bay a little after 11 o'clock. Its narrow streets were crowded with visitors and shops designed for tourists. Up an alleyway I found a café for coffee and a raspberry and white chocolate tart. Under the tables lay dogs, obediently quiet but eyeing up each other and any new canine arrivals. Plenty of dogs were on the path too, enjoying a run and sniff in the Sunday sunshine, but one pup was too timid to come passed me. His owner picked him up and I offered him my hand to smell to show I was not a threat. He seemed pleased by the discovery.

Ravenscar was just after the ruins of an Alum works. Once planned as a town for holiday makers, a project that was unsuccessful, there was now a National Trust café, which gave me another excuse for a rest. My feet where feeling the strain, and my knees were having trouble bending and I was still only half way to Scarborough. 

However I did eventually reach the town, walking along the promenade in front of brightly coloured beach huts while families lingered on the beach playing ball or exercising dogs. My Bed & Breakfast was at the top of the green slope rising from the prom.. I was glad to arrive and rest my throbbing feet. Later I found a Czech café for dinner, the only one in Yorkshire according to Daniel the owner, although I regretted not being more adventurous in my menu choice. Next time I will have the chicken breast wrapped in a potato pancake!