Cleveland Way Coastal section: some comments

The Cleveland Way has two halves, an inland section including moors and hills, and a coastal part. In this blog I just walked the 51 miles along the North Sea coast (also part of the England Coast Path). 

Along the coast the Cleveland Way is a path mainly located on the top of the cliffs that extend from Saltburn to Filey. On one side the ground drops away to the sea, on the other, fields stretch away into the distance. Although usually unfenced the path is never so close to the edge as to make it precarious and there is no fear of vertigo. However, probably not the best trail for people contemplating a messy suicide.

As a coastal path some might think there is not much climbing or descending. In this they would be incorrect. Streams and small rivers cut into the landscape creating narrow valleys down which you must go only to immediately ascend the other side. Steps and stairs have often been installed to assist, otherwise the path would become a muddy slide, however I found many of the steps rather high. My stiff knees had trouble bending sufficiently. The valleys were often wooded with low contorted trees, devoid of leaves when I walked the route.

There are a few sandy beaches such as at Scarborough and Runswick Bay. Around valleys and beaches there were often towns and villages, and maybe small harbours. Whitby, Robin Hoods Bay and Staithes retain the narrow streets, steep hills and ancient terraced buildings that look cute on photos, and in consequence the first two were full of tourists. Scarborough and Filey were towns largely designed for tourists in Victorian times with offerings spread along their promenades. 

There is a little history ranging from Scarborough castle, to remains of Alum quarrying and Second World War defences. Information boards were good at describing historical context where no visible remains could be seen, as far example with Roman signalling forts. 

Being a popular holiday area there are plenty of cafes, restaurants and places to sleep, although they are not evenly spaced so planning is needed. Waymarking is good and navigation is generally a matter of keeping the sea on your left (if heading south).

I walked as March turned into April and many parts of the path were muddy and slippery. This was after the wettest March in 40 years. Later in the year conditions will be better. There were gulls (apparently including kittiwakes), crows and on my last day skylarks to watch and listen to, and daffodils, primroses and blackthorn blossom to keep a spring in my step, as well as a few sculptures. 

Maybe not the most dramatic of Britain's coast paths, but pleasant nevertheless.