Moffat to Pikestone Rig: E2 Day 47

An enjoyable day in good weather with high level ridge walks, great views and a walk on a quiet road by the river of Ettrick Water.

After my rest day I was feeling more energetic this morning. I hope it lasts! First there was a road walk to rejoin the Southern Upland Way. Admittedly the road I chose meant I missed out 500 metres of this National Trail, however I am not a purist who feels I have to walk every step, although I have never cut out sections using public transport or accepted a lift in a car.

The path followed the river of Moffat Water through a beech wood, and then along the edge of a field before turning uphill, entering forestry and starting uphill. There were two alternative routes that the Southern Upland Way offered. As the weather was good I chose the high level route. A steep, winding climb at the start and then on leaving the trees, a lovely ridge walk. The ground was drier than earlier on the Southern Upland Way, covered with grass, heather and whinberries rather than reeds and spongy, water soaked moss. Around me I could see down valleys empty of farms or houses, clothed with patches forestry or heath. Clouds travelling across the sky gave slowly moving areas of sunlight and shade over the rounded hills. High in the sky some bird of prey circled slowly, their silhouettes too small for me to identify. Down in the valley a large area of trees had all been blown over, maybe the effect of Storm Arwen last year.

Looking back at Moffat.

On one of the posts a metal notice stated that Anna Rutherford had recently run the entire Southern Upland Way in 62 hours, 34 minutes and 55 seconds, i.e. less than 3 days! Having spent 7 days already on this trail and barely past half way I can only admire Anna for such an incredible achievement. 

Looking ahead.

Unfortunately on the steep descent to rejoin the alternative branch of the route, moving a lot slower than Anna would have been, I slipped in slow motion on some mud. No big deal, a little graze on my elbow which I cleaned with a wet wipe and applied antiseptic cream. The one other person I saw walking today, a man with binoculars and a beard, saw me doing this. I extracted a "hello" from him in reply to my greeting. 

The path then followed a stream up a "V" shaped valley. Feeling guilty that I had not tried to find one of the "kists" that are unique to the Southern Upland Way, today I was making an effort. Spotting a metal badge on one of the waymark posts, that might have said "Ultreia" before it rusted, I knew a kist was close by. I looked around and saw a pile of stones. On closer examination they were held together by a metal rod and the assemblage was called "Wind Soldier". Beside it was a container of "waymerks", specially minted coins. They seemed have been designed by a local school. I took one to show my wife and anyone else interested and then left everything as I found it for others to discover.

The "Wind Soldier" and kist.

Following a bit of commercial forestry, I ate my lunch in the Over Phawhope Bothy. Actually two buildings, one with a luxury of a toilet. All was neat and tidy and it meant I could enjoy my food out of the wind while reading people's comments in the bothy's log book.

Shortly after I joined a tarmac road through farmland, but a very quiet one, except for the sound of Ettrick Water, a river then ran nearby, and the bleating of sheep. In one field two sheepdogs, border collies, were being trained, and very obedient they were. Crouching low, completely focused, monitoring the sheep until some action was needed whether due to the sheep's movement or the trainers command.

I climbed out of the valley among the long grass on a good path. As I was crossing over Scableuch Hill the setting sun started to colour the clouds. Time to find a spot to camp. I found one on the side of Pikestone Rig, a bit sloping but at least the grass had been cropped by the sheep to give me a smooth spot to sleep.

Path in the evening light.