Pikestone Rig to Innerleithan: E2 Day 48

A walk around St Mary's Loch and a climb over hills to reach Traquair house where I enjoyed lunch and a maze.

Waking early, the overcast sky again meant the dawn was just an emerging grey. After descending from the hills in a light drizzle I arrived at the shores of St Mary's Loch. Following the shore by its still waters, I walked through a remnant of an ancient wood. Sheep were eating any saplings that had naturally seeded, so volunteers had planted young trees behind protective wire mesh so that there would be trees here after the old trees had fallen. Leaves were beginning to yellow. The red berries of rowan and rose shone brightly in the dull daylight.

St Mary's Loch, biggest in the Southern Uplands.

Dryhope tower.

At the end of the long lake I started to climb into the hills passing the ruins of an old "tower house". Dryhope tower, built in the 1500's, was a fortified house designed to protect against raiders. However the Scott family who owned it appeared to do a bit of raiding themselves. I climbed up a steel spiral staircase within the tower, causing a fluttering of wings as brooding birds took flight. From the top of the ruins there was a view over a farm back to the Loch, and in the other direction my path into the hills. In a nearby stand of tall trees, crows cawed and moved around restlessly. 

I continued up and down the rounded hillsides on a good path, among the long grass blowing in the wind. Rams with curly horns glared at me, other sheep moved away in a line. Ridges in the middle distance had taken on patches of reddish brown as the heather and bracken was dying back as winter encroached. 

As morning turned to afternoon I saw the town of Innerleithan in a valley below, grey in the distance, enclosed by mountains, their slopes splashed with scree. This was my destination for tonight and encouraged my fight against tiredness. Even better it meant I was soon at Traquair house, the oldest inhabited house in Scotland, famous for its traditional brewery. I was especially interested in its tea room, which amused the ticket seller who assured me there were many other attractions. However first I indulged in coffee, cake and a cranberry and brie toastie, the warm cheese oozing from its sides. Then I tried to find my way out of the maze.

Traquair House.

Tonight I am at a campsite, and have walked into town for dinner at the Traquair Arms. Choosing a bottle of the Traquair House beer to accompany my Sticky Toffee Pudding dessert, I found it pleasant but at 7.5%, rather strong.