Melrose to Jedburgh: E2 Day 50

A morning climb in the Eildon hills, followed by leafy riverside walks and a trip down a Roman road.

Today I started St Cuthbert's Way. He was a saint who was born in Melrose and died and was buried on Holy Island (Lindisfarne). This long distance path traces a route between the two. A pilgrimage trail for some but for me it was how the E2 linked the Southern Upland Way with the Pennine Way which it joins at Kirk Yetholm. 

I have walked today's route before, but in the other direction, which is why I probably forget about a long steep flight of stairs that I had to climb up this morning on leaving Melrose. The climb into the Eildon hills was an early test of any pilgrim. Reaching the flat cleavage between two peaks there was a reassuring view of flatter lands beyond for the rest of today's walk. 

Long flight of steps leaving Melrose.

Walking down the hills, a cocker spaniel carefully placed his ball in front of me and looked up at me with pleading eyes. Of course I threw it for him. Then his owner appeared and said he will let anyone throw his ball for him. I felt demoted from a specially chosen person to just anyone. Later I came across some black sheep. Most sheep run away from people but two of these animals came up for a close look at me. I expect they do it to everyone, hoping for some food (or a ball). In the pretty village of Bowden a lady used some hay to tempt a horse into its box beside an old, stone, octagonal structure once used to supply water. A tiny lizard which scuttled across my path, some ducks and a heron were my other animal sightings today.

A very friendly black sheep.

I was walking through many areas of trees today; oak, beech, pine among others. The leaves were just starting to turn, changing colour to yellow and orange for a last period of beauty before the bare, black, branches of winter.

Leaves turning on a woodland path.

Having walked this way before I was aiming to return to a bookshop café in St Boswell I had thought particularly good. My memory of its location was undimmed, and I indulged in a coffee and a chocolate and orange cake for my elevenses. Looking around I noticed that a number of famous authors had visited to promote their books. Robert Harris was coming this weekend, £30 for two including a copy of his latest book. The write up was good enough for me to download his book onto my kindle. The village was small so I was not sure how the modest bookshop managed to attract the big names. It did have a comforting air, it was hard to say why, but it was difficult to get myself moving again.

The path followed the meanders of the River Tweed which today was fast flowing. In places clusters of bubbles on the muddy brown water shot past me moving at a running speed many times faster than I was walking. Turbulent eddies welled up and the high, water level was advancing into bankside vegetation. No doubt the consequence of recent rain.

River Tweed.

On reaching a junction I met two of the rangers who look after paths in the Borders. They asked after my plans and I thanked them for maintaining the area's paths. Much effort has been spent on St Cuthbert's Way installing stairs, railings and footbridges. Earlier, by Melrose, there was a new, chainsaw carved, memorial bench dedicated to the late John G. Henderson, who helped develop St Cuthbert's Way and other Scottish pilgrimage routes.

Dere Street was once a Roman road, now a straight corridor of lightly wooded land bisecting the surrounding farmland. I followed a path which wound around trees, long grass and willow herb. After crossing the Tweed a final time I passed Jed Water. The river was racing in its struggle to empty its hinterland of water. I hoped no-one suffered flooding. Heavy rain had been forecast today but fortunately little had fallen, maybe it came early, I had heard heavy rain overnight. Due to the forecast I had changed my plans, opting for a hotel rather than a less costly camp site. Now I felt a bit of a fraud. However the Royal Hotel is very comfortable, warm and friendly, so maybe it's worth the extra.