Comments on Southern Upland Way

As part of the E2 I have walked about 70 % of the Southern Upland Way. Prior to this trip I had the impression that it was a boggy route, with wet feet being a daily occurrence, and that it ran through a lot of commercial, conifer plantations. Certainly there are wet, muddy and marshy sections, however much of the path is either good or has been improved by adding aggregate and/or drainage ditches. There are also parts in forestry, with straight lines of Sitka Spruce,  however much of the route is across open upland, moorland with scenic views. In addition some of the woodland is of oak or similar deciduous species, with holly and rowan making for a pleasing walk. Even in conifer plantations, rather than following hard, gravel, forestry tracks, much the route is along grassy paths, winding among the trees, a more pleasant experience. 

I was impressed by the views from the rounded hills and ridges, where trees were absent there was a feeling of openness and freedom. The occasional villages and small towns were very welcome for a coffee, bed and supplies. Tourist sights worth a visit included Castle Kennedy, the Wanlockhead's Lead Mining past and Traquair house. Earlier in the year there would have been more flowers to admire, the heather had mostly died back during my walk in late September and early October. 

Parts are remote and should only be attempted by those with previous long distance walking experience in this type of mountainous terrain. Good planning is required to ensure you have a place to sleep each night e.g. by arranging pick up and drop off with nearby Bed & Breakfast establishments, wild camping or the use of bothies (refuges free for (tidy) people to use). There are also companies that will organise it all for you.

The route is well waymarked but a GPS with a track of the route loaded, and/or a suitable guidebook is needed as all junctions may not be clearly marked. Weather in the Scottish mountains can be harsh, turning cold, wet and/or windy at any time of the year, so you need a complete set of waterproofs, spare clothes and something warm.

Where the E2 and myself left the Southern Upland Way for the St Cuthbert's Way by the River Tweed. Note the white thistle symbol on top of the post which marks the Southern Upland Way. Like this one, many finger posts have become difficult to read due to age.