More uphill today as I walked from the River Doubs up over mountains before returning to the river higher up its course.
A light mist filled the valley when I woke this morning, there was a damp cold in the air, my tent was wet with condensation. The sun had yet to reach the valley floor although it had turned the cliffs at the top of the mountain opposite a shade of orange. Donning my warm jacket I walked to the centre of town to pick up coffee and pastries at the boulangérie, which I ate in the town square. Apart from a few children on their way to school the town was quiet.
After returning to pack up my tent I continued on the GR5. Rather than follow the valley floor, the path climbed up its side before dropping back down again to a collection of strung out houses. Crossing the river the longer climbs of the day began. The valley sides were steep, tall, and frustrating to climb. I kept thinking the top of the ridge was just ahead of me, only to find when I reached it that there was a higher skyline beyond. Then, when I finally crested the top and descended into a valley, there was another ridge waiting for me to climb over. My total ascent today was a healthy 1000 metres. After the morning mist cleared there were blue skies and sunlight. The temperature rose rapidly and with all the climbing my sweat shirt soon became wet with sweat. Changing into a tee shirt brought a bit of relief (swapping clothes during the day is one advantage of carrying all your clothes on your back, although today I was wishing my rucksack was a little lighter).
Much of my day was spent walking in woodland, deciduous and coniferous, the trees providing welcome shade, but there were also fields of grass, more yellow than green at times with all the dandelions. Although quiet minor roads formed much of the trail, there were also forest tracks and paths. Flowers brightened the wayside; pink campion, cowslips and many others in yellow, white and purple.
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| Dandelion filled field. |
The main village I visited today, Courtefontaine, had a traditional lavoir with the usual signs, advising that the water was not for drinking. However there were also "tap" signs suggesting a nearby source of potable water. I was in need of water as I had not anticipated such a hot day with so many uphills. Following the signs led me in the wrong direction but a guy driving a tractor pointed out the tap in a lean-to beside the Mairie. Sadly the tap was seized, I was unable to turn it on. The other disappointment was that the bar/restaurant cited in my guidebook had closed long ago. Faded signs showed where it once refreshed the passing traveller.
Signs had informed me that I was in the "Le Pays Horloger", land of the watchmakers. It seems the tradition of Swiss watchmaking had spilled over the border here. One of the signs was by a small chapel that was having its roof repaired. It marked the start of a long descent into Goumois. The village lies at the bottom of the valley where a bridge crosses the Doubs into Switzerland. I had sight of it from a viewpoint located on the top of an old pill box. The GR5 conveniently led directly to the simple campsite, where I pitched, let the tent dry out, phoned my wife and showered. Somewhat disappointed that my sweatshirt now has white salt marks from the drying sweat.
This evening I am again at an expensive restaurant, there being limited alternatives. Starters was a salad with saussicon, for the main I had fried and battered carp which seems a regional dish, a fish not served in Britain, and for dessert an unusual take on tarte tatin (not an improvement in my opinion), all supplemented by a glass of the local white wine. I will not be eating so well tomorrow as I expect to be wild camping, lacking any alternative accommodation.
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| Path approaching Goumois. |
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| Looking down on Goumois |
24.9 kilometres today with a 1010 metre total ascent.
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