Goumois to La Rasse: Day 164

A contrast to previous days, today my trip was down the narrow valley of the River Doubs. 

I walked from my campsite into the centre of Goumois for a coffee and croissant at the shop. The helpful owner also made a ham and cheese sandwich for my lunch which I supplemented with an apple and chocolate. He used the local Comté cheese which added flavour. A more basic lunch than my dinner last night.

Being a sunny Saturday, there were many walkers out for the day. I played tag with one family, I would overtake them when they stopped for a photo, and they would pass me when I removed an item of clothing as the day warmed up. There was a circuit which people seemed to be walking, going down the French side of the river, crossing a bridge, then returning on the Swiss side. A healthy distance as bridges were widely spaced. All the restaurants seemed to be on the Swiss side which seemed more developed than the French riverside.

River Doubs with some morning mist.

Path beside the river.

I stopped by the little chapel of Bief d'Etoz, admiring the coloured patterns on the pews, made by the sunlight shining through the stained glass windows, and praying for people both alive and departed. Continuing along the valley the path passed the meagre ruins of an old glass works. 

Climbing uphill the trail led me to a shelter in the remains of La Charbonnière, an old farmhouse. I lunched on a bench. Although open on three sides a roof kept the sun off me while I enjoyed my sandwich. The day was particularly hot considering it was April. A man on a "scrambler" bike rode by, the noise cutting through the birdsong.

I then took a higher level alternative of the path to visit "Les Échelles de la Mort" (the scales of death). To descend these cliffs a series of ladders are attached to the rock, easy to use with attached handrails. More interesting were the people on the "via ferrata", climbing up wires and around scary cliff heights. Fortunately, they all seemed to have lanyards to clip onto the safety wires, which would save you if you fell. Not sure what you do if you are just too scared to continue, the route seemed "one way". As I descended the ladders I was aware that my left knee did not want to bend much. A problem I have had before, I understand it is due to fluid filling a cavity behind my knee, called a "Baker's Cyst". Probably it was caused by a combination of my arthritis and climbing up and down mountains and along rocky paths yesterday and today. While it will go down if I rest for a few days, that is a bit awkward on a long distance walk. I put on a knee support to help control it.

People on the Via Ferrata of Les Échelles de la Mort.

Ladders I used to climb down.

There were a series of barrages or dams today, built to extract hydroelectric power from the Doubs. The dams created artificial lakes behind them which has rather changed the character of the valley base. In addition there were warnings that due to the hydroelectric plants, the water level could rise suddenly. This could an issue as I will be wild camping tonight in the absence of any other accommodation. The guidebook referred to a hotel at La Rasse, but this appears to have closed some time ago.

I walked beyond La Rasse in a particularly secluded part of the valley, away from roads and buildings. Its steep sides meant places to to pitch my tent were limited. With the warnings of a sudden rises in water level I was pleased to find a flat spot above any likely water level at the site of another old glassworks "La Verrerie de la Guêpe". In addition to a picnic table there was a spring, very welcome as in the hot weather I was running through my water supply very quickly. The porous, limestone geology means that surface water sources can be hard to find. There was also a locked wooden building, a lot of empty wine bottles, the remains of a few fires, a couple of bird feeders and a mouse that ran off. Despite these signs of visitors I am hoping no-one will disturb me tonight, not even a mouse.

Artificial lake in Doubs Valley beside where I camped.

23.5 kilometres walked today with a total ascent of 670 metres.