Westerlo to Scherpenheuvel: E2 Day 110

A sunny Sunday with lots of people out enjoying the woods on foot or on bicycle.

I was fortunate in that there were few people at the Westerlo Youth Hostel last night so I had a room to myself. At breakfast there was a fit looking Dutch couple walking to Santiago de Compostela. They started in Amsterdam and were walking it in stages. People often think that the Camino de Santiago runs just across the north of Spain, but there are a web of routes from many parts of Europe. He had a small, silver scallop shell on his (Osprey) rucksack, a sign of a pilgrim going to Santiago. Later I saw the blue and yellow scallop waymark on my route as I crossed the Camino trail (also known as the "Way of St James").

This morning's walk was through much woodland. The first part included a walk beside a river and some lakes covered with small white flowers. Straight trails led me through tall pines, oak, beech and limes. The many intersecting trails were seeing much activity. Pelotons of cyclists on sleek bikes with matching lycra shirts shot by, mainly men but some women. Females were well represented in older groups riding at a steady pace, while chatting to each other. Groups of people were also out walking together, one person leading the way. Couples with young children dawdled along, while joggers ran by me. Men or women walked dogs. Some ignored their charges who ranged around on their leads, others pulled them in close as I went by and one dog managed to reach me for a stroke. It was while I was slightly off the trail trying with an App to identify a tree with deeply grooved bark, possibly a locust tree based on its leaves. I think the dog's owner thought I was having a pee but she did not say anything in English (and I do not understand Flemish).

A lake with croaking frogs covered with small white flowers 

Averbode Abbey was a key milestone (an abbey for each of the last three days). English translations on the display near the entrance told me that the abbey was founded in 1134 and that they brewed beer, baked bread and produced cheese. There was a café so I sat down for some lunch. I have been getting a bit pudgy with all the cake so I picked out a salad on the menu which included the word "Kaas", which means cheese. The waiter was a bit shocked when I asked for lemonade rather than sampling the Abbey's beer. Unfortunately the wait for my salad was rather long. When it arrived I realised that some of the other words on the menu described the cheese being deep fried in breadcrumbs, so maybe not so healthy!

After the protracted lunch I walked around the Abbey walls and found the entrance to the main compound. There was a shallow pool of water in front of the abbey church, and if you stood on the far side you could see its reflection. As I positioned myself to take a photo a monk strode by, his long, white robes flapping with each step. Inside the church, there were some baroque aspects among the white columns and white vaulted ceilings.

Detail from inside Averbode Abbey church.

Around the Abbey, trees grew on small hills, maybe ancient sand dunes. A variety of shrines had been constructed. Some, made of concrete, did not look that attractive. Later the route entered the "De Demerbroeken" marshy area (Google translates the name as Demer trousers)! There was some board walk above waterlogged ground but also some muddy sections. Frogs croaked loudly in nearby lakes. Yellow flag iris were just coming into flower at the lake margins. One part of the trail was barriered off with a sign (in Flemish only). I followed a couple with their child around a barbed wire fence obviously designed to keep us out. A man the other side of the fence pressed down on the wire so that they could step across, and I followed. Continuing on the original path I could see that they had been working on clearing a winding ditch, which explained why the path was blocked. However it was Sunday so nobody was working.

The slow service at lunchtime meant I had to hurry to reach the guesthouse I had booked for the night. I had told the owner I would be there at four pm, but I was predicting a later arrival time so I kept up a good pace. Hurrying on an old railway line, now a cycle track, I passed a fortified tower, known as the Maiden's tower (Maagdentoren), as there is a legend that the local lord locked his daughter in it to stop her marrying a local farmer. I arrived at the guesthouse in Scherpenheuval only 15 minutes after the promised time, and after showering and shopping I am now sitting with a glass of wine in front of me having finished a (rather tough) steak and chips. Many of the customers in the busy restaurant seem to know each other, stopping by to say "hello". A small statue of the Virgin Mary complete with rosary is looking down on me, hands clasped together, hopefully praying for my soul.

After dinner I walked around the great basilica at the centre of the town. 150 years ago the statue "Our Lady of Scherpenheuval" was crowned at the request of the Pope. Various celebrations had taken place or were planned to commemorate this rare event. The basilica was locked but around and in front of it were chapels and stalls with hundreds of lighted candles. On the town's roundabout, an abstract Madonna and child with a crown above them could just be made out in a display of blue and white lights.

Basilica of Scherpenheuval.