The GR5 across the French Alps is very much an "up and down" route, rather than a ridge route. Every day seems to have an unrelenting climb up to a high mountain pass or "Col", followed by an unremitting descent, hard on the knees. The advantage of all this climbing are the views of snow streaked Alps seen, at least in July, from flower filled Alpine meadows. This is not a wilderness area. Valleys are full of towns and villages, many of which are visited such as Briançon (with its historic fortifications), Les Houches and Modane. Facilities for skiers and mountain bikers mark the landscape in a number of the areas visited.
On each day, as you walk up from a valley bottom, first there may be mixed woodland, but most of the climbing will be through conifer forest. The trees then become patchy before you enter extensive upland pasture with cows and sheep guarded by fierce, white sheepdogs. Above perhaps lakes and marshy meadows rise towering cliffs and rocky peaks. Finally you are climbing over rock and scree to reach the top of the pass, then you begin the long trek down the other side. There are flowers of many different types, some familiar, others unknown. A display of yellows and purples, tall spikes and tiny florets. Most abundant in July and on the northern part of the route, less so in August and the drier, southern section where lavender and grasshoppers mark a more Mediterranean climate.
One of the features of the Alpine part of the GR5 is the number of hikers following it (and trails which intersect it such as the Tour de Mont Blanc). You frequently meet the same people on the trail, at one of the many mountain refuges or in valley bottom campsites. A more social trail than most of the others I have walked where I am often a solitary backpacker among dog walkers, joggers or no-one at all. Most people walking the GR5 seem to divert onto the GR55 for the section before Modane and follow the GR52 from St Dalmas to end at Menton, rather than Nice. Often they will be walking the trail a section at a time, say from Lake Geneva to Chamonix, to fit in with work commitments. Those hiking the trail are far from uniform. You can spot people planning to camp by their large rucksacks, some neatly packed, others with bottles, sleeping mats, flip flops, and drying washing hanging off the sides in a disorderly jumble. Those who have booked places in refuges have smaller packs, confident they have somewhere to sleep each night, with breakfast, dinner and the possibility of a packed lunch. They may well have booked their accommodation months in advance as I found places were often full. Having a tent gives some flexibility. Wild camping is generally not allowed, however bivouacing is. A bivouac is camping between 7 pm and 9 am. Unlike on some of my trips there are people on the trail of a wide range of ages, including family groups and single women. Hikers are not the only tribe enjoying the Alps in summer, there are mountain bikers, trail runners, rock climbers and holiday makers travelling by car enjoying the scenery, short walks and the food.
Food can be heavy on cheese and ham. Every refuge seems to offer a similar daytime menu of omelettes, crêpes and tart au myrtille. Evening meals at refuges usually start with soup and bread, sometimes served with a slice of cheese, then maybe a pasta based main course, and a dessert of fruit pie or faisselle, a cross between soft cheese and yogurt served with a sweet fruit sauce. One can feel short of vegetables and fresh fruit.
The GR5 trail over the Alps is busy in July and August as this is when the high passes are sufficiently free of snow to allow safe passage without crampons and ice axes, although late June or the first half of September may be suitable. July and August also include the French holiday period.
It is a great walk, especially if you like company, but there is a lot of climbing up and down mountains each day.
Start at Lake Geneva is here.
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