After the best sleep so far on this trip I packed up and went back into town for a coffee and croissant. In the café there was a table with members of the Reims Champagne Harley Davidson Club. I had seen their highly polished machines at the campsite. A similar age to myself their interests were different, enjoying exploring the Alps with their well loved machines throbbing between their legs, whereas I gained pleasure from using my own muscles to visit these mountains (although maybe not so much pleasure during an unending climb).
My day's journey began with a gentle riverside walk leading to the first highlight of the day, the Gorges des Tines. The river no longer ran through the gorge which was narrow, a corridor between tall limestone cliffs, sculptured into smooth shapes by the action of waters flowing down the ancient river. Ferns grew from rocks in the shady gorge base A few sets of steps helped navigate the more difficult parts.
Continuing to a wide valley the next highlight was the Cascade de Rouget. An impressive waterfall in two sections, the foam a brilliant white in the sun, spray extending across the road. While the road made elaborate switchbacks to climb up the valley to the restaurant and car park at Lignon, the GR5 took a steeper, more direct route through the broadleaf woods cutting out the bends. After a crêpe and Coke at Lignon the serious climbing began. The route included another waterfall, or rather two, as two streams tumbled down to join each other. Many hikers were out: individuals, groups, couples, some carrying babies on their backs, even small children were managing the climb. Throughout this trip signs indicated how much time it would take to reach the next landmark. One such place was the Refuge d'Anterne. When I started from Samoëns the signs were saying 5 hrs 35 mins. As I progressed I was pleased to see the times slowly drop, 5 hrs 25 mins, 5 hrs 10 mins, 4 hrs 55 mins etc. until by a marshy meadow, high in the mountains it was down to 10 mins. The refuge, also called the Alfred Wills Refuge after the founder off the Alpine Club, made a suitable spot for an omelette as a late lunch.
2 hrs 10 mins ahead was the Refuge Moëde Anterne, my target for tonight based on the Cicerone guide. Reaching it meant struggling to the top of the Col d'Anterne, passing the beautiful Lac d'Anterne. From the top of this pass, I joined others trying to spot Mont Blanc, however the clouds were obstructing it, just giving tantalizing glimpses of its upper slopes. Then it was a slippery descent to the refuge by another small waterfall.
I had not been sure that I would reach the refuge and had made not any reservations. It was full anyway on this holiday weekend (tomorrow is Bastille Day). I understood from the Internet I could camp near it, but there were plenty of no camping signs. Asking a fellow on the trail he said camping was not allowed but it was possible to bivouac, which meant you could camp between 7 pm and 9 am. Closely looking at the very small print on the signs, it did indeed say this. Having treated myself to a beer at the refuge I decided to camp several hundred metres downhill of the it, but I can still see it above me. Beside the refuge people have laid out their tents and stuck their trekking poles in the ground to claim a good spot, flat and not marshy. Now we are all waiting for 7 pm. It is quite cold as I am at 2000 metres and a wind is blowing. Around 6:30 pm tents started going up by the refuge so I erected mine and went inside to shelter from the wind, eat a little and enjoy a night's rest.
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