The first few hours were an unremitting climb to the Col du Bise, a high pass in the mountains surrounded by limestone cliffs. Until the car park at La Planche the path crossed and recrossed a minor road that required a few extra bends for cars to manage the valley's gradient. Beyond La Planche the path, zig-zagged up the mountainside, first through conifers and then up open slopes. As forecast it rained. I took off my trousers and tee shirt and just wore my waterproof jacket and over-trousers over my underpants, but I was still sweating profusely. The sweat mingled with the rain as rolled down and stung my eyes. Eventually the rain stopped, the forecast thunder thankfully did not materialize. By now high up, I kept my waterproofs on as there was a cool wind. My climb was a little longer as I missed the right path twice, which did not impress me.
After reaching the Col it was then steeply downhill to the "Chalets of Bise". A collection of restaurants, a refuge and farm shops selling cheese beside a well used car park. I could tell I was approaching from the number of people with day packs and children walking up the path, unlike the occasional hiker with a large pack with whom I had exchanged "Bonjours" with nearer the pass. The weather had now improved and I sat outside at a café, and attempted to order a "Croque Marmotte" and a coffee. Instead a Coke and coffee arrived. On making a second attempt my croque was successfully ordered. I had assumed that this would be a bit like a "Croque Monsieur", but then I wondered if it would actually contain bits of marmot (a local squirrel like animal). Unless marmot meat tastes like ham then it did not, rather it was a toasty containing ham, cheese and tomatoes topped with a fried egg. (The Coke I accidentally bought was probably worth it as I was worried about dehydration as I had not peed as much as normal during the morning).
The afternoon was another steep climb up to another pass, followed by a long climb down. I was glad of my trekking poles to lean on during the descent as they took some weight off my knees, both of which were complaining, not just my dodgy left one. The many flowers distracted me from my exertions, a brilliant display of many species. Some I could name, such as geraniums, ox eye daisies, ranunculus, anemones, cow parsley, campanula, scabious and wild roses, others I looked up with my PlantNet App such as a round-headed rampion, yellow rattle, mountain flax and giant yellow gentian. A multi-colour, mountain garden to brighten my day. I also saw what looked like a wild sheep; white wool and horns, not associated with any domestic flock. Periodically a cacophony of bells announced that I was approaching a herd of cows, their crude, clanging bells hung around their necks on thick leather straps.
Arriving at the tourist village of La Chapelle d'Abondance well before the check in time for my "chamber d'hote", I settled myself on a table outside a boulangerie and bought a coffee and tarte aux myrtille. Loaded with blueberries it was delicious although the pastry case was a little too crisp.
Although I walked only 15 kilometres today it is not the horizontal distance that counts on this trail, it is the total ascent which today was 1360 metres (about the height of Ben Nevis, Britain's highest mountain). It felt like more, and tomorrow I have a total ascent of almost 1500 metres!!
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