The GR5 offered two alternative routes today, one starting at Modane and a variant starting from Fourneaux. As I had been staying at Fourneaux, the variant there was the obvious choice, however my guidebook, which tends toward understatement, described it as a "steep climb", which was somewhat disturbing.
After a light breakfast, I crossed under the railway lines and headed up to where the GR5 path left the urban sprawl. A blog written last year indicated that the path was blocked by work to remove an old road viaduct. I was hoping the work was complete. This was not the case, however an official diversion of the GR5 saved me from having to secretly cross a demolition site, following the footsteps of the blogger of the previous year. Soon I was walking steeply upwards through conifer forest. The GR5 swapped a few times between a twisting, gravel vehicle track and narrow paths through trees, and I may have missed out a path section or two by following the easier vehicle track. Part of the route was by electricity pylons. Given the Alps are a beautiful area that needs to be preserved, I had not expected to see quite so many pylons and their associated wires strung out over the mountains and valleys on this trip. Although the climb was long I was mentally prepared for it, I also had a goal. Refreshment at the village of Valfréjus, where I indulged in a refreshing coke and ice cream. It was also here the variant joined the main path coming from Modane. The bar where I enjoyed this break was beside a square containing an obstacle course of the type often found in trees. Young children, and with less grace their parents, walked along planks and wires suspended a few metres off the ground, safely secured to safety wires with two lanyards. I suppose the apparatus, and the ziplines I had seen across the valley on my way up, were devised to provide attractions for tourists in the summer, while skiing brought winter visitors. Also at the bar was another hiker. I was intrigued as she had a pair of small socks attached to the straps of her rucksack with miniature, pink pegs. Not doubt washing out to dry as she walked, together with other clothing tied onto the back of her rucksack.
My climb continued through trees, for which I was grateful as they gave shade from the fierce sun. A blessing as I was sweating with the heat and the effort. I left the trees at a place called Le Lavoir. Here there were Second World War blockhouses of the type used on the Maginot line, built to protect against invasion by the Italians, whose border is nearby. There was also a large building, the windows only partly glazed, many were empty sockets, that cast an ugly shadow on the landscape, whereas the scattering of traditional buildings, low and stone built, seemed an integral part of the broad valley. There was also equipment associated with channelling water to a hydroelectric plant elsewhere, which, if not entirely natural, did at least provide clean energy.
Now above the tree line, my path continued up a grass covered valley. After the car park at Le Lavoir, I was joined on trail by many more people, most out for a day's walk. My pleasure was slightly spoilt by periodic attacks by horse-flies. Finally I topped the pass known as the Col de la Valley Étroite. Here I left the GR5 to firstly visited the Refuge du Thabor for a lunch of omelette "Bleu", i.e. with added blue cheese, also nuts and ham. Outside of the fixed evening dinner, the menus at refuges are pretty predictable: omelettes, crepes, tartelette de myrtle and tart aux noix. Using blue cheese in an omelette was a bit of a novel variation.
Having refreshed my water bottle I continued to the nearby lakes where I planned to camp. People were swimming in the lakes, and as I had little else to occupy me for a few hours I made a brief foray into the water. The depth of the lake swiftly increased and I was soon swimming a few strokes. Not as cold as I expected given the patches of snow on the nearby mountain slopes, but not exactly warm. A passing English man assured me that I would "not get him in there". Although one is meant to wait until 7 pm to erect your tent, people were doing so much earlier, so after reading for a while I pitched at 6 pm, and ate the ham salad roll I had bought this morning with an apple and some other stuff. Bored of reading I am now wondering how soon I can get into my sleeping bag.
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