Jougne to Chaux-Neuve: Day 169 and 170

A snowy climb among ski paraphernalia to a cliff overlooking views to the south, followed by a long descent to the source of the River Doubs.

A walk through snowy forest.

I decided to take a rest day at Jougne yesterday, and apart from a walk into Les Hôpitaux-Neuf to pick up a coffee and lunch I pretty much just rested, lying on my bed reading my kindle. This improved my knee which will now bend almost fully, but my neck suffered. Difficulty moving my head from side to side or up and down has been an issue for months and was particularly bad this morning. I dread the thought of being an old man going around with their head bent in a fixed position all the time. However after exercising it I was able to return a degree of movement. 

This morning, after refusing further offers of food after a substantial breakfast, I left the hotel, returned to Les Hôpitaux-Neuf and rejoined the GR5. A long ascent ensued up to the summit of Le Morond. Although there was now little snow in the valley it became progressively thicker as I climbed through trees and then by ski lifts and up ski runs. On the higher ground the snow had frozen, and gave a pleasing crunch as I stepped on it. Fortunately there were footprints in the snow to follow, people had been up the mountain yesterday. Without them "breaking trail" the ascent would have been much more tiring, and finding where the path went under the snow, more difficult. Although the lifts had closed for the season I could see from straight, parallel tracks in the snow that a few people had brought their skis up to glide downhill while it was still possible

Le Morond was the first summit, after I conquered it, my route was down a slope to a lake before a climb up towards the higher peak of Mont d'Or. As I was now at over 1400 metres, the snow was several inches deep and hard work to walk through, even following the footsteps of earlier travellers it was tiring. To my left there was a cliff. On a clear day the distant scenery of forested hills was probably impressive, my guidebook promised a view of the Alps, but today visibility was poor due to low cloud and snow showers. 

Promised view of Alps from cliff top was not visible due to the weather.

I did not climb to the summit of Mont d'Or, the GR5 veered off to the right. There were several people about, including a family on their cross country skis. I followed footprints along the snow covered ridge, through fields bordered by fir trees, the grass hidden. It was as if the curves of the ground had been coated with icing sugar. In my mind Good King Wenceslas was asking his page about a lonely walker.

The footprints ended at a restaurant called La Boissaude, where several cars were parked. These wide roofed buildings seemed to be called "chalets", with many rooms in the roof space. Farmhouses in the area have similar wide roofs and have accommodation for animals and people in the same building. Still full of undigested breakfast I decided against lunch at the place. After La Boissaude, only my footprints broke the pristine, smooth snow cover until I reached remote roads and forest tracks that ultimately led me to the source of the Doubs. The River Doubs emerges from a cave as a fully formed river. I have seen the phenomena before in similar limestone country such as in Serbia. It is always impressive. 

Farmhouse in Haut-Doubs with a typical, wide roof and accommodation for animals and people. 

River Doubs emerging from a cave.

Now below the snow line I had planned to stay at the campsite by the Doubs source at the village of Mouthe but the unmanned campsite required booking on the internet. The adjacent restaurant was closed until May, the area looked dead and heavy rain was forecast. It was only 3:30 pm so I booked a Bed & Breakfast in the next village and continued on my way. What I omitted to confirm was the check in times. It seemed I needed to arrive by 6:00 pm which could have been a struggle. Fortunately the path was along the valley floor with no mountains to climb and I made good progress. The owner was hovering around the front door when I arrived, no doubt wanting to check me in before departing to make his tea.

After a telephone conversation with my wife, a shower and eating all the little chocolates left by the tea and coffee making facilities, I walked to the nearby restaurant for dinner. One of those more expensive eateries where the food looks pretty and the duck breast is served rare, but a warm and pleasant place nevertheless with friendly, smiley staff.

31.3 kilometres walked today including 920 metres total ascent.