A day of three parts: a walk to Châtenois-les-Forges to rejoin the E2; a stroll by water, lakes and canals; and then an undulating trip through deciduous woodland.
Leaving the industrial looking area around the TGV railway station I first followed a cycle path around the edge of a village, by a pond where I disturbed a heron. To the north, fragments of the Vosges mountains that I crossed last time could be seen at times. When the cycle path headed off north I was forced to walk along the edge of the road across two roundabouts to reach a hospital where a cycle path beside the road provided a more pleasant way to reach Châtenois-les-Forges.
When I passed through the town on my last trip I visited a boulongerie which also served coffee at pleasant window seats. My memory of where it was located proved remarkably accurate. As it was elevenses time when I reached the establishment I settled down to a coffee créme and a tarte aux framboise. The latter was exceptional. As I bit into the fresh raspberries, after gentle resistance they burst open, full of flavour. The sweet, creamy filling softly parted before the crisp, pastry base gave way after a brief delay (dropping a few crumbs on the floor).
Suitably refreshed and carrying a spiced chicken filled half baguette for lunch, I joined the GR5, its waymarks occasionally paired with those for the E2. There were also a few "Chemin de St Jacques de Compostelle" and E5 waymarks as these long distance routes crossed mine.
My path threaded its way through a collection of lakes, bordered by trees. Old gravel pits beside the river I assumed, but now used for fishing, wildlife and on one lake, activities such as bathing, canoeing and stand up paddleboards. Leaving the lakes I followed a path beside the Canal de la Haute-Saône. Trees in fresh green leaf lined the still waters and birdsong accompanied my walk. Bunches of mistletoe were visible on trees yet to be fully dressed in leaf. Crossing an aqueduct over a river I joined the Canal du Rhône au Rhin, or at least a silted up section of it. Willow branches swept down to greet me, partially hiding an adjacent area of light industry.
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| One of the lakes beneath grey skies (but fortunately little rain). |
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| Bridge over the Canal de la Haute-Saône. |
After my baguette beside a church and a stone lion's head spouting water from its mouth, I started on the woodland. Young beech and birch trees among others lined the paths that traversed the low hills. A few grey haired men were undertaking forestry work with old tractors, creating piles of logs.
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| Walk in the woods. |
From the hill above the village of Dasle, beyond the green and yellow fields of grass and rapeseed, I could see the wooded hills of the Jura mountains rising in the distance, hills I would soon be climbing over. Reaching the village I turned off the GR5 to find my lodging for the night in nearby Beaucourt. I had reserved a room in a château guarded by private property signs. There was no answer at the only bell I could find, nor from the telephone number in the booking confirmation. Next to a "closed" sign there were two telephone numbers. The second finally led to a response and I am now in a high ceilinged room in modern, inoffensive grey tones. Having a shower I was a little disturbed by the lack of a curtain in the bathroom, afraid my naked body might to visible through the tall windows. Maybe a French thing I thought. Only later did I discover a bank of switches to lower concealed blinds.
Château Japy where I am staying is linked to a major industrial conglomerate which peaked in the 19th century. The founder brought modern industrial techniques to watch making before his sons expanded into typewriters, welding machines etc.. Their factory and residence was here in Beaucourt. Andre Japy, one of the descendants was a famous aviator in the 1930's establishing many long distance records. Sadly, the village's glory years have now passed, but at least one large building with shattered glass windows is being renovated and repurposed for the modern world.
22.4 kilometres to Dasle from TGV station, with an extra 3.1 kilometres to lodgings at Beaucourt. Total ascent 260 metres.
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