Wednesday, October 11, 2023

Thann to Col des Perches: Day 155

Another day in the forests and open ridges of the Vosges Mountains, one on which I ate well!

Before leaving Thann I peeped into the big church (St Theobold's). Although not matching the delicate masonry of its spire, the interior had good lines and some interesting pieces such as a rather modern stained glass window. Then I hit the morning climb, easily completed as I was fresh. As the distance today was not great (18 kilometres) I stopped at a mountain hotel for a morning coffee. Later I found an open Ferme Auberge, unexpected as so many seem to be closed when I pass, so I had an omelette and salad for lunch. Larger than I expected so I suffered a little as there were a few steep sections in the afternoon. 

Another sunny day of clear blue skies as I walked on grass covered ridges grazed by indolent cows and through woodland on shaded paths that wound around and over minor summits. Sunlight shone through the leaves, bright green and yellow above me, while patches of light played on the brown earth of the path. Climbing an outcrop of rock I viewed mountains draped in forest, green but gaining orange tones with the coming change of season. Red roofed villages each with a church spire spread along the valley floors. To my left was a distant plain. To my right, on the other side of a long valley I spotted the Grand Ballon, the mountain I had climbed two days earlier. 

Looking down the ridge.

View of distant mountains.

Walking on a forest path.

Tonight I am at a Gite d'Etape, dormitory accommodation with a set dinner and breakfast provided. Located in the mountains, I descended a hundred metres or so down a steep slope from the GR5 towards its distinctive red roof. It is used by walkers. Tonight there is a group of five women, maintaining a constant chatter, a quieter pair of women, a group of four composed of two couples (the women and men having separate conversations) and a single man like myself, although a bit heavy for a long distance walker. Most have grey hair, others might have shared this colouring but for the assistance of their hairdresser. During the school holidays I would hope to see some family groups or students outside term time, although they might be on mountain bikes rather than walking.

Tomorrow will be a long day when I finally leave the mountains of the Vosges.



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