Ribeauville to l'Étang du Devin: Day 150

A long day with much climbing to summit multiple peaks of the forested mountains.

This morning my right-hand, lower back was stiff and painful. To see me walking to the toilets from my tent I doubt people would have thought I was about to complete a 32 kilometre (20 mile) day with 1500 metres of total ascent. Indeed it was probably unwise but it was necessary as I was struggling to find accommodation. Then late last night I had an email from one of the options I had been pursuing to say they had a room, an offer I accepted. It was only a few kilometres away from Le Bonhomme where I had planned to stay, however most of those kilometres were steeply uphill, this was on a day when there was already a large amount of ascent. In addition the campsite where I stayed last night was over a kilometre away from the GR5 on the other end of town, adding more length to the day.

One advantage of having to cross Ribeauville was that I could breakfast on coffee and croissants in a boulangerie cum café. Joining me as I walked through the streets were crowds of school children. Although I had started early, leaving the campers all still in bed, the youth of the town had already washed and dressed to arrive at school at around 8 am.

Children on the way to school in Ribeauville. 

My early start was rather wasted when I followed an attractive path around a hillside. Lovely in the morning sun but unfortunately the wrong path. I walked an extra three kilometres as a result of my error, consoling myself that as I was alone, no-one was going to get cross at my navigational mishap (except me who found a few choice swear words to berate myself).

By now the stiffness of my back had worn off and being the start of the day the first long climb to the large rocks on top of Koenigsstuhl (937 metres) was not too arduous. A good way up there was a notice saying "No Entry, Forestry Operations". There being no apparent alternative route and not hearing sawing I ignored the sign. It was evidently an old one as there was no equivalent sign marking the other end of the forbidden zone. At the summit of Koenigsstuhl the surrounding countryside was hidden by conifers of several species growing around the outcrop, but although there was no view there were some big rocks to walk over with rough steps, a change from forest paths.

Rocks by Koenigsstuhl.

Next event was arrival at the village of Aubure. Not expecting much, especially as the boulongerie was closed and up for sale, I was exceptionally pleased that a small shop beside the Mairie sold me a coffee, orange juice and kitkat. I enjoyed them on one of the seats outside while another gentleman managed two beers. A fluffy white dog ran in and out of the shop several times, stood on his back legs in an endearing fashion in front of the windows of the Marie, then barked furiously when I put on my rucksack to leave. A little outside the village there was a viewpoint in what looked like a rotunda from ancient Greece. Le Bonhomme had an arrow to where it lay, hidden in a valley, it did not seem too far. Grand Ballon, which I would cross in a few days time was in the far grey distance. A group of cyclo-tourists in bright yellow tops joined me admiring the scenery.

My attempt to reach the rocks by the next summit ("Pierre des Trois Bans") was thwarted by bigger "No Entry Forestry Operations" banners. This time there was a hand written notice advising walkers of an alternate route down a forest road on the left. Given this effort and the distant sound of power tools I thought I better follow the diversion (although the wording "left" was a bit ambiguous as it depended on which direction you were looking). However an arrow and a review of where different tracks went on my GPS map suggested I followed the correct one. Yet another "No Entry Forestry Operations" sign prevented me from reaching "Pierre des Trois Bans" from another route.

Continuing along the forested ridge to the next peak I was thinking how much more enjoyable ridges were when there were no trees to obscure the surrounding vista. Then a steep climb up to the next summit of Le Petit Brézouard (1203 metres) distracted me from such thoughts. From the top a more limited number of trees meant I could see ranges of blue grey hills in the distance. I could also see a lady sitting on a log beside her backpack. We exchanged polite "bonjours" and then she said something incomprehensible (to me) in French. I gave her my best smile thinking it might be a comment requiring no reply, so she tried again in English. After saying I was trying to get to L'Étang du Devin today she said that was a long way in a serious tone that implied I was foolhardy. That seemed a good reason to head off in a hurry, accidentally missing out the final summit of Le Grand Brézouard (1229 metres).

After a long descent I reached Le Bonhomme very tired and with my back aching again, not a good sign late in the day. After an attempt to reinvigorate myself with a Coke and a slice of plum tart at a bar (the only food that seemed immediately available) I began the long upward journey to L'Étang du Devin. The hotel was slightly before the lake but it was still are hard pull.

The hotel was very much for "randoneurs" (long distance walkers) and there was a big party at a long table for dinner, obviously an organised German group. I was given a table by myself to enjoy the green salad, thick slices of ham and "rosti" potatoes followed by ice cream which I enjoyed immensely despite the simplicity of the dishes.