Col de la Schlucht to Metzeral: Day 152

Beautiful scenery but a difficult descent meant I stopped my walk at lunchtime. 

After struggling with a stiff back, tottering around on rough grass while I brushed my teeth, I left my hidden campsite a little before 8 am. The sun had only just cleared the horizon but already there were many people along the edge of the ridge, where the land dropped steeply to the east. At first I thought they were admiring the large, dusty yellow sun rising above grey mountain ranges, however some were equipped with cameras with large telephoto lenses. Scanning the hillside below, I noticed a group of animals grazing. Too distant to identify I wondered if they were chamois as later, when the path took me down below the ridge line, I caught a glimpse of a creature with brown and white stripes.

The rising sun and far away mountains watched by a group of people. 

Taking selfies at Le Hohneck.

While still on the high ridge I admired the scarp slope beneath me, dropping sharply to the east, with rock outcrops, grass and areas of trees, their shapes outlined by the morning sun. Beyond, forested mountains rose in lines, turning from grey to forest green as the morning progressed. At Le Hohneck there was a large car park, full of cars despite the early hour, a hotel and brasserie (closed when I past). From there the path began to fall, easily at first as far as the Ferme Auberge of Schiessroth. I  had read such places provide food although the door was closed when I passed, however people were milling around an annex that appeared to have dormitory accommodation. I suspect I missed a number of such places when I prepared my itinerary. 

From Schiessroth my struggle began. The path was tortuous and rocky, running back and fore as it dropped down the steep and stony slope between mature trees. My progress was slow as I tried to avoid damage to my knees caused by landing a footstep too hard or at an awkward angle. Loosing a great deal of height I reflected that I would have to climb back up it all on the other side of the valley. Despite the difficulty the descent was through a beautiful area. In addition to the trees and the pervasive greenness of the moss covered rocks there were two lakes. The higher one was a reservoir, I stood on the dam admiring the reflection of the mountain I was descending. Further down was a smaller, more intimate lake, its surface reflecting the leaves of sunlit trees and grey granite rocks.

Reflections in the lower lake, the Lac du Fischboedle.

A long rocky path down over scree slope modern or ancient.

Reaching the village of Mittlach I was a little disappointed it did not have more facilities as I had been imagining a morning coffee and a pastry at a boulangerie. However with my slow and careful progress it was now midday so I settled for lunch at the hotel. I weighed up the options, whether to continue on the next section with my stressed knees, a long uphill climb and then wild camp, or stay in a hotel in the valley. As proving my endurance despite adversity and pain was not my aim I have settled for the hotel. After confirming that the hotel at Mittlach was full I booked one in the neighbouring village of Metzeral. Although over three kilometres away it was along the valley floor with no climbing, on good tracks or roads.

Informative signs with old photos showed the village was pretty well destroyed in the First World War when the French captured the town, so most of the buildings were from after then. I spent the remainder of the afternoon doing chores and planning the rest of my trip. It seems not so long ago I was at a campsite in Belgium, now I am comparing bus and train journeys home.