Andlau to Chatenois: Day 148

As I crossed the forested hills of the Vosges today I encountered the mountain of Ungersberg and the ruins of two castles. 

At breakfast a large coach party surrounded the buffet. Large, slowly, shuffling bodies prevented access. I grabbed a few items briefly within my reach between gaps in their torsos and retired to allow the tide to ebb thinking I might be like them in ten or twenty years time. Patience rewarded me and after a few cups of coffee I visited a pharmacy, conveniently nearby, to explore their stock of dressings ("pansements") for the large blister that had encased my heel, communicating in a mixed words of French and English.

Andlau was another charming village of half timbered houses. In the square a statue of a bear was eating grapes, maybe a sign that wine making was very much the theme of the area. Another statue on the ursine theme was of St Richardis and a bear. A reference to the Abbey that was founded at Andlau in 880 at a spot where the saint saw a bear scratching in the soil.

Bear eating grapes at Andlau.

Leaving the town behind I was soon climbing among the trees. A final steep, zig zag ascent took me to the top of Ungersberg (901 metres). In order to admire the view a squat, stone tower had been built. From its top I could see down to the vineyards on the lower slopes and beyond, through the haze, across the wide plain of the River Rhine with its many villages of houses with white walls and red roofs.

The descent from Ungersberg was quite rapid in places causing my ears to pop. Moving fast with my poles for support I tried to reduce the stress on my knees, or at least keep the period they were suffering as short as possible. Rising and falling the GR5 took me through the forest. According to a sign some of the conifers were planted almost 70 years ago and have grown tall, ready for harvest. Shortly after a rocky outcrop (Rocher de l'Ane) I heard a loud hammering up in the trees. After much searching I found the source of the noise, a woodpecker attacking a pine tree where a branch had broken off.

Attractive woodland paths led me to the Chateau de Bernstein. I had visited the Vosges before and remembered enjoying a Black Forest Gateau in the café at one of Alsace's Chateau's. However Chateau de Bernstein was a ruin far from any refreshments. Dating from the 13th century the tower was still intact with steep and dark metal steps inside which I carefully climbed. From the top I could see the mountains of the Black Forest, just visible, rising in the far distance.  

View from Chateau de Bernstein.

Later I passed the Chateau de l'Ortenbourg also ruined with no café. As it was getting late I decided not to investigate inside but hurried down the hillside through oaks and sweet chestnut trees. After crossing the flat valley floor between electrified fences I reached Chatenois. Another charming town of half timbered buildings, at least in the centre. My Auberge for tonight was in a pink one. 

I have just finished my dinner in a nearby restaurant with a dessert of "fromage blanc", or white cheese. However this was runny stuff...