Zutendaal to Maastricht and home: E2 Days 116 & 117

Another circuitous route through woods and along waterways to Maastricht followed by a long bus journey home.

The GR5 excelled itself today by making my walk to Maastricht particularly long by numerous turns, many taking me away from my destination, 12 kilometres in a straight line was turned into 30 kilometres along the waymarked trail. Maybe the authors of the route were trying to show me the best parts of Belgium, or maybe they just wanted to make me walk further. However, today was warm and sunny, and my bus home was not due to leave until late in the evening so I was content to just walk. For the first 15 kilometres I was walking through woods, occasionally heading in the right direction. I skirted fields and some houses, although the path kept away from urban areas. There were also a few lakes, so very similar to previous days.

A walk through the woods.

By Lanaken the scenery changed. I approached the town by a sports area. Lots of kids in sports gear and their parents were out, many of the children were already in coaching sessions dribbling a ball around traffic cones and the like. My thoughts were elsewhere, and fulfilled on reaching the town's centre where I stopped for my first coffee (and cake) of the day. After that the GR5 took me on a long deviation to the north on a section of the now familiar Albert Canal, although no barges on it today. 

Maastricht's 18th century fortifications.

When I finally reached the outskirts of Maastricht I began an interesting tour of the city's 18th century defences. Between extensive ramparts which zig-zagged back and fore there were deep brick lined, mostly dry, channels. Unfortunately a section of the GR5 following one of these dry moats was closed, and I had a little trouble finding a way to the path on top of the outer rampart. The GR5 does not take you to the centre of the city, so after the rampart section I left the long distance trail, planning to return in September. I had plenty of time for sightseeing so I started with the Basilica of Saint Servatius, a large medieval church. In a reliquary it had pieces of the saint's skull. Veneration of bits of dead saints is something I never felt any sympathy with, I would be happier if they were buried. Of more interest to me was a collection of faded silks up to a thousand years old, naturally looking somewhat ragged. There were other old churches and another basilica in Maastricht, the golden alter pieces of their chapels lit by hundreds of flickering candles left by the faithful. One large, attractive church had been turned into a large bookshop. At the tourist information they told me there was a food festival in a park on the south side of the city. Called Festival Trek, it seemed an appropriate place for a long distance walker to visit. I stopped there for a while, enjoying a burger and watching a couple of bands play on a small stage. A French band sounded distinctly Irish. Outside there seemed to be rival Caribbean food stalls, I wished I had saved more appetite for them! 

12th century reliquary with remains of Saint Servatius.

Bikes and people sunning themselves by the city walls.

Band at Festival Trek.

Lots of people were around in town and being the Netherlands (I crossed from Belgium as I entered Maastricht) there were rows and rows of parked bikes. In the afternoon, many groups of people and couples were sitting or lying down on the grass by the city walls near the river. Later the cafes and restaurants filled to capacity on this sunny, holiday Saturday. I have now retired to some steps on the bank of the River Maas (or Meuse) to write this. It seems a popular place for younger people to sit and play music or smooch. Ahead of me lies a 10 hour coach journey through the night to London, and onward travel from there. I am hoping the seats are comfortable.

Later: On this trip I spent 54 days walking from Darlington to Maastricht, 1186 kilometres, 741 miles (excluding missed turnings and deviations to hotels). My troublesome left knee at the end of it was in far better condition than I expected with no obvious fluid build up. I put this down to the good trails, flat underfoot, with little to bend my knee sideways or twist it. My ankles were a little sore but other than that I was feeling good. At the start of my walk up in Darlington it felt hard going, Probably as I was not in the best of condition, but after a week or so I was managing better.