Tuesday, May 9, 2023

Halsteren to Bergen op Zoom: E2 Day 105

A circuitous path on a wet day with Fort de Roovere being the best part.

Leaving my hotel at Bergen op Zoom I caught a bus back to Halsteren where I finished my walk yesterday, then I walked back to my hotel on the E2. The route was a circuitous one, intricate in places, with the aim of visiting Fort de Roovere and staying in wooded areas as far as possible. Rain continued throughout my walk, which included three types of landscape. Firstly, urban areas of housing of different ages by Halsteren and Bergen, looking drab in the poor weather, although in good condition. Secondly mature woodland, wet and dripping, of oak, beech and pines, with sycamore, rowan and holly in the understorey. In better weather walking through the new soft, green leaves would have been a pleasure. Thirdly, there was parkland around Fortress de Roovere.

Built in 1628 with earthen ramparts designed to absorb cannon fire and "bastions" sticking out at the corners so that armies attacking the ramparts between could be fired open by the defenders. The fort was part of a defensive line extending to Bergen op Zoom. As a defensive measure the defenders could also flood the fields in front of the line making it difficult for any attacking armies, in particular the Spanish from whom the Dutch had fought for their independence. 

Looking down on the moat and some of the earthen ramparts from the observation tower.

The fortress had an unusual sloping observation tower to look down on the ramparts, albeit partially obscured by trees. Poor visibility due to rain, made it impossible to see the more distant sights beyond the nearby treetops, that were marked on a metal panorama on the observation deck. 

Sloping observation tower.

The other unusual feature was the Moses footbridge across the moat. Constructed so that you were walking on a surface a few feet below the water level. The top of the wooden, but impermeable sides, was just a few inches above the water level.

Moses bridge. 

Eventually reaching the centre of Bergen op Zoom the central market square looked miserable, with its lines of empty wet chairs and tables outside bars and restaurants. I found a cafĂ© for some lunch where there was plenty of room for me inside. 

A school was disgorging its young pupils as I returned to my hotel. In Britain this creates congestion as parents pick up their offspring in cars. Here, although a few cars pulled up, many parents arrived on foot or by bicycle. Some children, who I am sure will do well in their later life, walked home on their own. Curious bicycles were used by several of the parents. They were either purpose made or adapted to carry young children, generally in a carrier in front of the rider, with the front wheel moved forward of the handlebars to accommodate its bulk. One was like a rickshaw, the children in a cabin in front and the parent peddling from a position behind them. Later I returned to the central square and enjoyed an asparagus menu, in which the first and second course included asparagus. It was to celebrate the asparagus season which is now coming to an end.

Central square in Bergen op Zoom, emptied by rain.



No comments:

Post a Comment

Jura E2 / GR5: Some comments

My experience of the GR5, the path taken by the E2 across the Jura mountains, was much influenced by the April weather. Contrary to expectat...