Brecht to Camping de Zeven Geitjes: E2 Day 108

Farmland and woods again today, but with the hidden highlight of Westmalle Abbey and the more visible sights of a canal and a castle-farm.

The Dessel-Turnhout-Shoten Canal was the first sight of the day. Although not particularly wide a large barge was motoring down it at a good speed, its propeller churning the water, its wake sending waves into the bank. Fortunately the banks were formed of steel piles designed to withstand the wash from vessels motoring past. As the barge proceeded into the distance, a bridge swung up slowly, ready to let it by. I wondered how the bridge was operated, it did not seem to be manned. Did the barge radio some central controller who opened the bridge remotely?

I again spent a good part of the day among farmland, perhaps more mixed today with sheep and horses as well as cows and ploughed brown earth. A large field of barley seemed appropriate as Belgium is famous for its beer, some of which is brewed at Westmalle Abbey. This Trappist monastery and its brewery is closed to the public and hidden from view as the whole site is surrounded by high, red brick walls. Nearby was a modern café and small shop where you could buy the Trappist beers. As I arrived just after 10 am it was a little early for a beer, so I had a coffee and a sandwich with Trappist cheese. You had to construct the sandwich yourself and ingredients supplied included a thimbleful of mustard, which proved a good accompaniment for the cheese.

In places today there were shrines, small buildings with a statue of the Virgin Mary inside protected by doors made of iron bars. It reminded me that while the Netherlands has historically tended towards Protestant Christianity, Belgium has been Catholic, although in both countries the Christian religion is declining in its appeal. Pieces of screwed up coloured paper had been attached to the bars of two of the shrines I saw today, I wondered why.

Shrine to the Virgin Mary.

A very large farm vehicle passed me, four huge back wheels in a line, as well as two at the front. It reminded me that yesterday another massive farm vehicle came up the track causing me to pull well into the bushes at the side. With a big tank and arms I thought it might be to spray liquid manure. Its large wheels made a muddy, mess of the track for me to work my way around. Long straight tracks led me through several mature woods with a mixture of trees. The very tall pines looked impressive but some of the oaks (identified by my App as Red Oaks) were also of considerable height. Ferns and brambles covered the ground beneath the trees.

Tall pine trees with a substantial under canopy.

My wife tells me that I walk along looking at the ground and she is right. In addition I find my self stooping forward, like a caricature of an old person with a burden on their back (my rucksack being the burden). Consequently today I was trying to walk more upright and look straight ahead. Concentration was needed as I found myself slipping back into a bent, head down stance when my mind drifted onto something else. My rucksack did not help, leaning forward was a means of placing its weight more directly over my feet. When walking on flat ground, such as quiet, tarmacked roads as I have today, I had a little success. On uneven tracks and paths I found that unless I was looking at where my feet were about to be placed, I missed slight depressions and my leading foot hit the ground harder than I was expecting, a particular problem with my left foot as it jarred my knee. Conversely a slight rise made me stumble.

Unexpected sights (coffees and cakes) are always a delight. Towards the end of the day I passed an old water mill beside a cobbled lane, mentioned in my guidebook and still in operation. A short distance beyond, a bridge led to the Kasteelhoeve D'Ursel. This was a castle or manor farm, the castle itself no longer exists. Built of red brick it had pointed towers and an elaborate arched entrance to an open area enclosed by the building on three sides. Chairs and tables were laid out and beer and other drinks were being served. As I still had a few kilometres to go I stuck with a coffee and admired the walls. They showed signs that it had once been a grander place, some of the windows had been reduced in size and others bricked up entirely. Although in need of some renovation I was glad to have visited. 

Kasteelhoeve D'Ursel. 

I have now diverted a little off trail to "Camping de Zeven Geitjes", or the campsite of seven kids (as in young goats). They have an enclosure for the goats, but I could only spot four of them.

Campsite goats, only three of the four wanted to be photographed.