Thursday, April 6, 2023

Wolds Way Camping to Fridaythorpe: E2 Day 72

A wet night and start to the day, the weather improving later as I walked through empty valleys.

Last night the sound of raindrops on my flysheet mingled with a continuous "whir" from some machinery on the farm, although the cows had become quiet. Rain continued this morning as I packed up as a grey light reluctantly announced a new day. By 6:30 am I was on my way, as were worms and slugs, taking advantage of the wetness to cross paths and roads in front of me.

Appearing out of the rain a kilometre or so down the trail, a group of white figures emerged. An art work made more sinister by the surrounding mist, and because the figures were hiding swords behind their backs. At the same location there was an avenue of wooden staves leading to a small lake. Inspired by iron age chalk figures and burial mounds it would have been less effective in bright sunshine. Several sculptures grace the Yorkshire Wolds Way adding an extra layer of interest to the trail.

Mysterious figures.

Descending a steep slope through woods to Wintringham I surprised a black labrador and its owner who had not expected anyone to be out so early. By the village a sign said the historic church was open, so I diverted to have a look. However I was disappointed that the door would not budge. Maybe it opened later in the day or else the door was very stiff. Crossing open fields and areas of mixed woodland, visibility in the rain and mist was initially poor. After hitting my face the rain was managing to roll down my neck and wet the front of my "base layer" as well as entering where my arms exited my waterproof jacket.  Thankfully on reaching the next village of Wharram le Street the rain had stopped so I could eat a Yorkie bar I had saved without getting even more damp.

Not far beyond lay the abandoned medieval village of Wharram Percy. Although a street of houses have been excavated, the only sign of these are mounds in the grass. There were two exceptions, the ruins of a church and a much later 19th century farm building. 

Roofless remains of the church at medieval village of Wharram Percy.

Leaving this ancient site by an old mill pond, I met a few people walking the Yorkshire Wolds Way. They were heading towards Filey, as were the two girls I met yesterday, and two men at the campsite in the evening. It seems that was the more popular direction to walk the path, I was travelling against the flow.

Thixendale was the next village, the one street of houses nestling in a valley, hills rising each side. From there a road sign stated that Fridaythorpe, where I was spending the night, was three miles away. I was a little annoyed that the Wolds Way was taking a longer route. However it was for good reason as the path took me through some beautiful "dales". Green, dry valleys with swooping straw coloured  sides and rounded shoulders, their curves teased me as to what might be around the corner.

Thixendale village. 

Typical dry valley in the Wolds, look carefully and there are the spirals of an artwork on the valley floor.

I reached Fridaythorpe, with its duck pond, architectural bus shelter and ancient church, in time for a coffee and panini at the (motor) bikers cafe. Bikers related stuff hung on the walls. Then I set up my tent on a small area of grass by a pond and some glamping cabins. The nearby pub had a sign proclaiming it a steakhouse and I anticipated a good meal. My hopes were dashed, the pub was closed for some indefinite period, it was tuna and pita bread for me.

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