Middleton-in-Teesdale to Barnard Castle: E2 Day 60

A change in scenery today as I left the Pennine Way and followed the Teesdale Way beside the River Tees through trees and farmland to Barnard Castle.

Not being in a hurry I had breakfast in a café this morning so as to see a bit more of the village than was possible last night. After agreeing that Middleton-in-Teesdale was a jolly nice place, the chatty owner mentioned that five of her staff had been down with flu. I wondered if flu had been the cause of my runny nose, tiredness and aches this trip.

When I finally left the hotel it had begun raining heavily. Fortunately it did not last and the sun appeared creating beautiful views of the River Tees with the surrounding trees starting to show their autumnal yellows. Gusts of wind pulled at the trees, creating brief storms of flying yellow leaves. Today's walk on the Teesdale Way was a complete contrast to the harsh, high fells of the Pennines, with its lack of trees or shelter from the wind. Instead I was walking through farmland rather than moors, often beside the river and among trees of beech and oak, acorns and beechmast crunched under my feet, dark green holly had bright red berries. In the fields the grass was a lush green, well tended and even, rather than the tussocky reeds and heather the sheep contended with in the windswept mountains. The Tees and its tributaries had cut down into an older, landscape of modest hills, giving steep, high, tree lined river bluffs. At times my path rose and fell on these slopes, rudimentary steps had been installed on the steeper parts, and footbridges crossed incoming brooks. At other times the route left the river and climbed over fields. Others were also enjoying a Saturday walk beside the Tees, we passed with muttered "hellos".

River Tees seen through the trees.

The countryside today was a contrast to the high Pennines (in the far distance) and other mountains I had been crossing. 

The path went through several wooded sections. 

On the way today were two villages, Eggleston and Romaldkirk. Pretty places, built of the local sandstone with a green, a church and a pub, but no shop or café that I was aware off. Fortunately, I spotted a sign for café not mentioned in my guidebook (a woeful oversight). It was at Eggleston Hall Gardens, just after the village. There I enjoyed a latte and slice of strawberry cheesecake marooned in a lake of cream. I looked in at the gardens as well, a large part of which was devoted to selling plants. After Eggleston Hall the path split into two, one each side of the river. Both were waymarked the Teesdale Way, with the insignia of a dipper, a cheerful looking bird. I chose the branch running on the south side of the river as this was the route described in my guidebook. 

Periodically on the Teesdale Way there were cast iron sculptures looking like chimney pots which marked the parish boundaries. An example of the public art that makes some of Britain's footpaths a bit more interesting. 

Another example of public art, a sculpture on the path side.

Coming into Barnard Castle I diverted to see the castle ruins that gives the town its name. Dating from the 12th century they stand on a cliff above the river. I looked down from the walls at an ancient bridge crossing the Tees which illustrated what a commanding position the castle occupied. 

Barnard Castle ruins.

Feeling I was spending too many nights with a beer or glass of wine in my hand, tonight I opted for a traditional meal of fish and chips with mushy peas and bread and butter, washed down with a pot of tea. A super supper. Returning to the rooms I am staying in above a pub, beneath me I can hear the hubbub of the male, Saturday night crowd and an amateur (I hope) singer having trouble reaching the high notes. 

Today's trip was a modest 19 kilometres, tomorrow will be more trying as I hope to reach Darlington railway station, some 33 kilometres away, before the last train leaves for home.