Greenhead to Alston: E2 Day 57

A wet day over moors and fields of sheep, rather than on the old railway that I followed on a previous trip.

Breakfast was yoghurt sprinkled with granola followed by avocado and poached eggs on toast, it was that kind of hotel! Then I had to leave its cosy warmth. As I retraced my steps back to Pennine Way, the rain began. It continued with a few, brief intermissions until I arrived at Alston seven hours later.

I had a choice today. I could either stay on the official Pennine Way all the way to the village of Alston, or I could switch to the South Tyne Trail at Lambley. The South Tyne Trail follows an old railway line, nearer Alston there is a section of narrow gauge heritage line on which steam locomotives run at weekends. On previous trips, based on a recommendation in my Pennine Way guidebook, I have walked along the South Tyne Trail, enjoying its tree lined sections and the viaduct at Lambley. However, having claimed to have walked the Pennine Way, today I thought I ought to complete the official route. 

In general I thought the guidebook was right. The Pennine Way runs through heather filled, grouse filled moors and sheep and cow pasture. There is plenty of this on other parts of the Pennine Way, whereas walking along the old railway on the South Tyne Trail gives a different, more unique experience. Maybe the weather, wind and rain in my face, mud and lack of clear paths made my view of this section unduly negative. However even the National Trails website suggests this will be your least favourite day on the Pennine Way and they seem to have incorrectly assumed part of it was on the old railway line!

Looking down the South Tyne valley from the Pennine Way. 

Pennine Way going below bridge of old railway. 

There were some redeeming features. Part of the trail followed the route of an old Roman road, so ran straight over the hills. As I walked I wondered how the legionnaires knew where to build the roads given there were no accurate maps. A section of path ran alongside the River South Tyne, an attractive water course of tea brown water running over rocks and stones. In better weather I would have found it attractive and worth loitering. Finally, there was a Roman fort, Epiacum, or at least the earthworks associated with it beside the trail.

Owing to the rain I walked without stopping all day, so on arriving at Alston I was hoping a café would still be open. Sadly not. So I enjoyed a Magnum ice cream in a shelter in Alston's Market Cross, then a coffee from the petrol station. 

On checking into the Youth Hostel, the kindly receptionist whisked away my wet boots and, more bravely, my wet, possibly smelly socks to be dried. Having showered I am now at a nearby restaurant, full from a relatively healthy meal.