Bellingham to Hadrian's Wall: E2 Day 55

A sunny day in which, after an overlong walk in Wark forest, I reached the famous Hadrian's Wall.

Breakfast at the Cheviot hotel was, my stomach felt, very generous. So much so that it dissuaded me from my plan to buy some lunch at the Coop or bakery opposite. So suitably replete I began my trek south.

Initially there were fields. Often I was confused about where the Pennine Way exited these fields as the path was lost among sheep trails in rough grazing. Still full of breakfast I did not visit the "Pitstop" with its offer of coffee and chocolate in a little shed on a farm. There were a few other stops of interest. I stood for a while watching a farmer, riding a quad bike, driving a flock of sheep across my path at what seemed like a high speed, his collie dog racing around the back of the animals to keep them in line. A cliff edged river of fast flowing brown water after a fern lined valley was a welcome break in my trip across the Northumberland farmland.

Typical post marking Pennine Way in middle of field.

Reaching the Wark forest, another commercial plantation, there was an "Alternative Route" to avoid storm damage on the official route of the Pennine Way. I knew of this detour from the National Trails website, but seeing the sign saying "Alternative" made me think the proper route was still passable. However as they had made the effort of signing an alternative route I followed that. The National Trails website implied that the diversion did not add much distance. This was incorrect. The roundabout route along forestry tracks added around five kilometres by my estimate. Although mainly on good gravel roads, a section of the track lacked adequate drainage and I struggled to avoid the large pools of water by climbing over the surrounding heather.

Finally free of the forest I crossed a series of ridges among long grass, honey coloured in the afternoon light, to reach Whin Sill, a ridge formed by an intrusion of molten rock into the surrounding strata, millions of years ago. It solidified into a hard, dolerite stone that forms a cliff facing north. An ideal location for Hadrian's Wall, designed to keep the barbarians to the north out of the Roman empire. To the east of where I joined the wall there was a garishly painted, roofless house. I assumed it was the work of errant graffiti artists on an abandoned building, but my research has indicated that it was meant to be an artwork celebrating 1900 years since the wall was built.

Line of Hadrian's Wall, the Roman Empire would have been on the right of it. Light was a bit dull, not so good for photos at this dramatic location.

I followed the Wall for a few kilometres. This part of the Wall has a particularly dramatic setting looking over the surrounding countryside from the high ridge created by the Whin Sill. There were plenty of people about, walkers and visitors. An important historical site where once Roman soldiers patrolled the boundary of their empire, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and an inspiration for "The Game of Thrones" and other stories. Some of the Wall is thick and I assume the original, 1900 year old construction, although it was once much higher. Elsewhere it is only one stone thick and I thought this a more recent wall which nevertheless followed the line of its Roman predecessor. 

After explaining to another walker where the Pennine Way went, as opposed to the Hadrian's Wall Path, another National Trail, I left the Wall to walk down to the "The Sill". This is a rather modern "Discovery Centre" and Youth Hostel. I was too late for the café but picked up a coffee in the shop and looked around an exhibition on the subject of "Landscape", based around the idea of "Natural Capital", the sum of all the natural resources available to us. Not sure if I learnt anything. I had been expecting something on the origins of the Whin Sill, or maybe the Roman occupation. It did fill in the time until I could check into the Youth Hostel for the night, somewhat misnamed as it accepts over 60s like me. Quite different from when I first stayed in a Youth hostel when you had to do chores, like sweep the floor and there was a 10:00 pm curfew. Nowadays you can buy a glass of wine and food. I also paid to have a private room. While not adverse to dormitory accommodation, like most older men I now have to get up in the night to visit the toilet once or twice. Having one's own room means you do not have to disturb others.