Wednesday, April 20, 2022

Mellon Country Inn to Gortin: E2 Day 23

Although the Ulster Way went to Gortin by a lengthy route, it was one that provided attractive views in the sunny weather.

In a straight line Gortin was under 9 kilometres from where I started today at Mellon Country Inn, however the Ulster Way was to take over 22 kilometres. For the first 6 kilometres or so it was heading in the opposite direction, and that was not the only time today it headed away from, rather than towards Gortin. But this roundabout routing was worth it. After fields of lush grass, more prosperous farmland than that of my journey so far, I arrived at a forest where my climb into the mountains began. On reaching the high ground I could see for many miles thanks to the excellent weather as well as the height. Down on the distant lower ground, among the rectangular fields, the scattered white houses stood out in the sunshine. Bessy Bell, lost in the clouds yesterday, was standing proud today in all her finery, attended by a row of white wind turbines. To the north the mountains I was to cross in the next few days looked deceptively attractive in their moorland dress, although I expected my hikes there would be difficult in the boggy conditions. I was walking through the Sperrins "Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty" (AONB) and in today's weather it seemed to justify this accolade.

View down from South Sperrins.

One thing spoilt my enjoyment. From near the forest entrance I was joined by a brown and white dog. A jogger, who it been following before attaching itself to me, said that he would follow me for a while and then return home. By lunchtime he was still following (or rather walking ahead of me and checking that I was following). He wanted to play "throwing sticks", he offered several pieces for me to throw, which I ignored. I ate my packed lunch by some picnic tables at a scenic spot with a great view where others were eating. Ignoring him I hoped he would give up or join someone else, but no, he amused himself chasing cyclists and van's. When I started off again, he followed. Eventually I told him in no uncertain terms he was not wanted and he took off down a trail. A little later I realised I should have taken the same trail and had to follow. My confusion was because the Ulster Way was being rerouted. I passed the men putting up the new posts, and doing so very efficiently. So I ended up following part of the new route and then having to cut across to the old trail as indicated by my GPS. This led me down to an area busy with people enjoying the Easter school holiday near the Gortin Glen Car Park. There was a waterfall, a little ravine, attractive paths among the trees, a play area and a café (sadly with a long queue otherwise I would have bought some refreshments). As I left the area I noticed in the distance the brown and white dog following another group. I do not think it was the first time he had enjoyed meeting, and stressing, people here.

New Waymark posts being erected, they were quick but thorough, digging a hole with an powered auger, inserting the post, surrounding it with concrete and making sure it was vertical as the cement set.

On the other side of the road to the car park the track was quieter. It led through another forest, with some beautiful stands of mature larch and pines, the light falling through them making patterns on the grass below. On reaching the road again, the Ulster Way again took me in the opposite direction to Gortin to show me the Gortin Lakes. People were even swimming in them.

Path among mature trees.

Gortin Lakes.

On finally reaching Gortin, after buying a coffee and provisions from the Nisa shop, I had another two kilometres to walk to reach "The Meadows" campsite. After settling in, on the advice of my host I walked down from the campsite to the river to see the sand martins and the holes they live in at the top of the river cliff. A bit like swallows but not so graceful, they swooped around in the air above me catching insects as the ripples on the river sparkled, reflecting the light of the lowering evening sun.


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