Sunday, April 24, 2022

Cam Forest to Castlerock: E2 Day 27

A beautiful, sunny day for me to arrive at the north coast of Ireland.

I still had 30 kilometres to reach my Bed & Breakfast tonight, so I was up early and on my way by 6:15 am. Commercial forestry was the theme for several kilometres, rows of conifer trees, probably sika spruce, the favourite of the industry for its fast growth. However it was pleasant, sunny weather and I enjoyed the ramble, making good time. There were a few interim sections of road between forests. On one very fast road, the rare Sunday morning car could be heard from a considerable distance away, sounding like an aircraft taking off as it raced up the black top towards me. Fortunately there was a good grass verge.

Wind turbines beyond the forest in the pink morning light.

After reaching "Bishop's Road" there was the possibility of an optional loop through Binevenagh Forest, including a viewpoint above cliffs. However I had enough distance to walk without adding more, especially as my knee was feeling decidedly shaky, complaining with dull but persistent pain. So I continued down the long road, leaving the trees behind, the sea of Ireland's north coast in front of me, in the distance but slowly coming closer. 

Two police cars and a fire engine came by me. I reached the fire engine parked at the Gortmore viewpoint. In answer to my query, one of the fireman said there had been a gorse fire yesterday and they were back to check it was fully out. For a few kilometres I had been looking at the large inlet of Lough Foyle to my left, and the viewpoint gave an even better panorama. I could see as far as Scotland, one of the firemen pointed out the Isle of Mull (or was it Islay) on the blue horizon. There was also a statue of a pagan sea god with outstretched arms.

View across the mouth of Lough Foyle.

More road walking followed against a cold wind. Castlerock village, my destination, still appeared very far away despite my efforts (partly because I was looking at Port Stewart and not Castlerock). On this road I met my first backpacker of this trip, carrying a tent like me. He was following the Ireland Way which runs down the middle of the island of Ireland from north to south. In Northern Ireland it follows the Ulster Way. He was a little disappointed when I confirmed there was a long uphill section ahead of him. 

A little before Castlerock the path deviated from the road and my tiredness dropped into the background as I was distracted by a few things. Firstly by Downhill Forest the Sea Shack was selling coffee which I enjoyed with sticky Lemon Drizzle cake listening to the nearby peacocks squawking. Secondly, Downhill Forest was different to the commercial forests I had been walking through. There were deciduous trees, a lake, wild garlic and bluebells coming into flower, all made more attractive by the sunlight filtered through the trees. Thirdly, after Downhill Forest the Ulster Way follows the road, but I found a much more attractive route through Downhill Demesne, a National Trust property of trees, a lake and bog garden among other things (no payment required). 

By this route I arrived at Castlerock and admired its long sandy beach. From the start of Downhill Forest many people were about, enjoying a sunny Sunday in the woods or by the sea. However there was room at a café for me to have another coffee and a healthy bowl of granola and yoghurt.

Castlerock beach.

All that remained was for me to walk a few more kilometres to the Bed & Breakfast I had booked at nearby Articlave.

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