The 4000 kilometre E2 European Long Distance Path from John o'Groats to Nice is a little long for most people to attempt. Unless they are on a gap year or retired they may only have a week or two a year for walking. They need not despair, although it is possible to walk the complete route the principal motive behind the E-paths is to encourage people to walk in different countries so as to meet people of other nationalities, discovering commonalities, cultures, cuisines and histories. By such means stereotyoes can be destroyed and the citizens of Europe are more likely to live in peace and harmony. This is why the European Hiking Federation (formerly the European Ramblers Association) awards certificates to hikers who have either:
- walked the same E-path in 3 different countries, with the minimum of 50 km in each one, completed within 3 consecutive years or;
- walked on at least 6 different E-paths, within 3 consecutive years, the minimum is 20 kms per walk.
The following gives suggestions of hikes that can be combined to walk at least 50 kilometres in 3 different countries on the E2 European Long Distance Path, with reasons why the proposed sections are distinctive. I have tried to show that whatever the type of walking you prefer, there are sections suitable for you. Note that like all E-paths, the E2 is created by joining together local and national trails to create an international route.
Flat walks
There are plenty of mountains on the E2 (such as the Alps) but here are a few suggestions for those who prefer to avoid walking up and down hills. While the reasons for inclination may be an injury or infirmity, as explained below these walks have unique attractions whatever your level of fitness, whether it is the beer or a chance to view massive works of engineering.
Hereward Way: big sky country
The Hereward Way forms part of the eastern variant of the E2 through Britain. Between Peterborough and Ely it crosses the Fens, an area of flat land drained by a Dutch engineer. Under big skies arched over distant horizontal horizons, the trail crosses rich farmland beside laser straight rivers and criss-crossing drains. One of the most beautiful cathedrals in Britain is at Ely at the end of this trail. This section can be completed in 2 1/2 days and completes your 50 kilometres, for a third day, continue on the E2 down the Fens Rivers Way to Cambridge, home to the many picturesque colleges of one of the oldest universities in Britain.
E2 in the Netherlands: works of engineering holding back the sea
Holland is well known for being flat but that does not mean boring. The Nederlands Kustpad which the E2 follows crosses many feats of engineering designed to prevent a re-occurence of the disasterous floods of 1953, essential as much of the country is below see level. Huge dams are crossed by the E2 and ocean going ships pass your hotel window on the Nieuwe Waterweg, however there are also nature reserves and history on the route. Walking from Maassluis to Bergen op Zoom is nearer a 100 kilometres but allows you to visit many sites. The fortified town of Brielle and the wooded dunes of the Voornes Duin Nature reserve are near the start of the route followed by the giant Haringvlietsluizen dam with its many sluice gates. Goedereede is one of the sweet Dutch villages visited with a canal down its middle, cobbled sreets and a pleasant pavement restaurant. Two more long dams, Grevelingdam and the Philipsdam, are crossed and there are other nature reserves before reaching the town of Bergen op Zoom. Here the E2 goes through the Fortress of Roovere with its earth embankments, curious leaning observation tower and Moses bridge.
GR5 in Flanders: good beer and holy sites
Flanders is pretty flat, and an opportunity to taste the flavoursome (and strong) abbey beers for which Belgium is famous. Here the E2 follows the GR5 across the north of Belgium. Three abbeys are passed in three days if you walk from Brecht to Diest, around 75 kilometres. The Trappist monastery Westmalle Abbey is closed to the public but a nearby restaurant serves its beer and cheese. Tongerlo Abbey allows you to visit its church and also brews its own beer. Averbode Abbey is the third abbey in this section, it welcomes visitors and has a cafe serving its beer and food. Beer can also be bought at Kasteelhoeve D'Ursel, a fortified manor house. Pilgrimages are made to Scherpenheuval where people venerate "Our Lady of Scherpenheuval". This small wooden figure was originally found hanging from an oak tree where the basilica now stands, sometime earlier that the mid 16th century. Numerous miracles have been ascribed to her. There are many historic buildings in Diest. Do not miss the area called the Begijnhof, which dates from the 13th century. A community of religious ladies lived in the quarter, occuppying their own houses and working for a living. Between all these sites the E2 crosses farmland, visits much woodland, follows canals and rivers, and also visits an area of marsh with wild flowers.
Coasts
Coasts have a particular attraction for long distance walkers, the sea stretching out into the distance bringing fresh air, seagulls and a sense of freedom. Here are three sections of coast on the E2.
John o'Groats Trail: along a remote, rough coast
Follow the John o'Groats Trail from the remote tourist settlement of John o'Groats on the far north east of Scotland on rugged cliffs and empty beaches south to Dunbeath to cover the required 50 kilometres of the E2 in Scotland. Seals bask at the base of the cliffs, birds of all kinds nest on vertical rock, sea stacks and skerries rise out of the sea edged with white foam, waves burst through natural arches, castle ruins stand close to the cliff edge. Sometimes the path runs near the cliff edge, but this being Scotland you are legally allowed to walk over the adjacent fields. For a more gentle walk take the path from Tain to Hemsdale, across long crescent beaches, by picturesque towns such as Dornoch and the fairy tale castle of Dunrobin.
Cleveland Way: a holiday makers coast
The Cleveland Way, part of the eastern variant of the E2 in England, follows the Yorkshore coast from Saltburn-by-the-Sea to Filey, visiting towns and villages much loved by tourists. Whitby is famous for its jet jewelry and among Goths for its ruined abbey, even the hostel by the abbey is ancient (as well as inexpensive). Scarborough is a classic Victorian seaside resort with a curving sandy beach and amusement arcades. Robin Hoods Bay is an old fishing and smuggling village, a place of narrow alleys and cafes to explore. As well as many interesting settlements there are cliff top walks. sandy beaches and historical remains.
GR5a on the Belgium coast
This is a section I have yet to walk, however from De Panne to Bruges would be a long flat, coastal walk by sandy beaches with good transport links and facilities. The city of Briges is one I have always wanted to visit.
Rivers
Rivers and their valleys have long been transport highways so it is no surprise that long distance paths often follow them. Here are some rivers followed by the E2.
Teesdale Way: countryside and industrial heritage
The Teesdale Way, on the eastern variant of the E2, follows the River Tees from the mountains of the Pennines through rural farmland to the fascinating bridges and industrial heritage of Middlesborough. Walking the section from Darlington to Middlesborough just about gets you to the target of 50 kilometres over 2 days. Darlington has good railway connections, little surprise as it was where Stephenson's first steam trains ran in 1825. From the city the Teesdale Way runs through farmland visiting a number of red brick villages, Middleton-one-Row is a convenient overnight stop. Sculptures scattered along the length of the trail add interest as do the metal dinosaurs at Teessaurus Park. After following the extravagent meanders of the river the E2 arrives in the industrial area of Middlesborough where the river side walk passes a series of historic and unusual bridges such as the Infinity Bridge and the Transporter bridge.
Thames Path: walking to the heart of London
The western variant of the E2 through Britain follows the Thames Path. This National Trail runs for 298 kilometres from the assumed source of the River Thames through flower meadows, fields and riverside towns to the far side of London. To cover at least 50 kilometres perhaps its most impressive part is the walk into the City of London starting at Windsor, with its castle, a home of the royal family and nearby Eton, with its famous public school. From there the path follows the river to Runneymede where the Magna Carta was signed in 1215, a first step in introducing modern government. The meadow is a pleasant place to watch the passing boats. The river trail continues by famous places such as Hampton Court and Kew Botanic Gardens, as well as several pleasant pubs and the offices of Britain's Secret Services, both MI5 and MI6.
Stour Valley Way: favoured by landscape painters
The eastern variant of the E2 in England follows the Stour Valley Way, which takes the walker through a slice of quintessentially English countryside, with riverside meadows, stately homes and pleasant pubs. In spring bluebells line wooded paths and daffodils burst from the wayside. Ancient flint-walled churches with unusual round towers offer a place to rest, as do equally ancient pubs. To cover over 50 kilometres, walk from the old village of Clare with its slight remains of a motte and bailey castle, to Mistley beside the estuary of the River Stour (which is on the Essex Way which the E2 follows after the Stour Valley Way). The landscape was much loved by the painters Gainsborough and Constable in the 18th and early 19th century, and a slight deviation of the E2 is worthwhile to visit Flatford Mill, site of his most famous paintings.
GR5 in the Jura mountans: the valley of the Doubs
The E2 follows the GR5 down the Doubs, a meandering river that cuts a deep and scenic valley through the Jura mountains. Starting at St Hippolyte follow the GR5 to Villers-le-Lac, enjoying fish for dinner at riverside restaurants, and fresh pastries for breakfast. The first day crosses mountains to cut off a long meander of the river, the following days stay in the tree filled valley although often climbing up the valley sides. Switzerland is close by as the river forms the border between the two countries. An optional detour takes you over "Les Échelles de la Mort" (the scales of death) where you can watch people on the via ferrata from the safety of a ladder. There are a series of barrages or dams holding back lakes, built to extract hydroelectric power from the Doubs, and an impressive waterfall at Sant du Doubs.
E2 in Luxembourg: rivers, trees and vines
The E2 through Luxembourg follows three rivers: the Our, Sauer and Moselle, which also mark the border with Germany. In eight days the whole route, along the length of country, can be covered and it is difficult to recommend the best bit for a shorter walk to complete the 50 kilometres needed for an E2 certificate. Maybe it would be from Beaufort to Remich, a walk of a little over 80 kilometres. There are two castles at Beaufort; one ancient, the other a little less so, and to the south of the town the E2 runs through "Little Switzerland", a valley of intriguing sandstone cliffs, trees and easy paths. Attractive towns on the rivers such as Echternach and Grevenmacher are visited. The southern part of the E2 in Luxembourg has vineyards on both sides of the Moselle valley. Public transport is free and there are several campsites which allow for an inexpensive trip if prefered.
Hills
If you want to mix gentle climbs with attractive towns and villages, here are some suggestions on the E2.
Yorkshire Wolds Way: graceful, green hills
The Yorkshire Wolds Way crosses gentle chalk hills, known as the wolds, for 126 kilometres. Cropped grass covers the dry valleys, fields are edged with hawthorn hedges. Although largely farmland mixed woodland occupies some slopes adding variety. Villages nestle in valleys, red brick or white painted houses, with ancient churches and old pubs. Skylarks belt out their songs above you, startled pheasants flap into flight and hares might be spotted. There are fine views over the Vales of Pickering and York. The section from Ganton to South Cave achieves your 50 kilometres and includes the small town of Market Weighton, the roofless remains of a church at the medieval village of Wharram Percy and interesting sculptures.
GR5 through the Ardennes: interesting towns and wooded hills
Walking from the town of Spa to Ouren near the border with Luxembourg takes you through the Belgian Ardennes. Spa was the original spa town from which all others were named, as it was originally called "Aqua Spadanae". Another pleasant town is Stavelot with its Abbey Ruins and memorial to the Ardennes Offensive that took place here in the Second World War. Burg-Reuland has a ruined castle and the inhabitants speak German, and indeed, prior to 1919 were part of Germany. Between such towns the trail crosses wooded hills with some steep slopes. There is a patch of bog preserved with an observation tower so that a larger area of the Ardennes can be viewed, and there is also farmland to cross. If you have a few more days start from Maastricht and visit the tunnels of Fort Eben-Emael and the pilgrimage site of Banneux, where a local girl saw visions of the Virgin Mary.
Mountains
For those that believe mountains are needed to create a good trip, here are some suggestions on the E2.
West Highland Way: into the mountains
The West Highland Way is a very popular long distance walk. It generally sticks to the valleys with a tough section around the waters of Loch Lommond. However, for mountains the Glencoe section should not be missed and a walk from Tyndrum to Fort William will more than cover the 50 kilometre requirement in two or three days. After the Kinghouse Hotel, the path climbs up the "Devil's Staircase" to cross the mountains on a high pass before descending to Kinlochleven at the head of Loch Leven, a long incursion of sea. From there the path climbs up into moors then runs through forestry to Fort William. As so many people walk the West Highland Way, which you can complete in seven days or less, there are many facilities for hikers, including companies that will book accommodation and transfer luggage for you, however as it is in Scotland, wild camping overnight is also legal.
Pennine Way: a classic route
Britain's first long distance path extends along the mountains that form the "backbone" of England. In summer you will have much company walking it. There are some excellent sections for example along Hadrian's Wall, built by the Romans millenia ago, or visiting Tan Hill Inn, a pub and guesthouse high up in remote moors. The limestone scenery of Malham Cove or the remote Cheviot Mountains are also attractive. However to cover a little over 50 kilometres you could walk from Alston to Middleton-in-Teesdale which will expose you to dramatic and remote landscapes, and can be covered in 2 days. You will climb Cross Fell, the highest point on the Pennine Way, and other mountains with extensive views in good weather, visit the perfect, "U" shaped glacial valley of High Cup and admire the waterfalls of High and Low Force. It is a tough but rewarding walk.
Southern Upland Way: remote mountains for wild camping
The Southern Upland Way crosses remote mountains in Southern Scotland. Wild camping is legally allowed for responsible walkers and it is the most convenient way to cross parts of the trail, although companies and accommodation owners offer people pick and drop offs for those wishing for a bed at night. The trail includes grass covered ridges, wooded areas, lochs (Scottish lakes) and a few castles. You could allow 10 days to walk the section of the Southern Upland Way which the E2 follows, although to cover just 50 kilometres, Moffat marks a convenient staging post with transport links. From Moffat to Melrose can be covered in 3 days to exceed your 50 kilometres. Melrose, beside the River Tweed, is known for its ruined Abbey.
GR5 through Alsace: mountains, castles, excellent wine and attractive towns
The E2 follows the GR5 through the Vosges, rising up and down from this mountain range visiting towns of half timbered houses and cobbled streets. Although the complete route is well worth walking, and takes less than two weeks, for a shorter length the section from Schirmeck to Ribeauville can be completed in four days. On this section you cross wooded mountains during the day then drop down through vineyards to picturesque towns in the evening where good food and Alsace wines can be enjoyed. On a red sandstone promontary with panoramic views stands the Convent of St Odile, a popular tourist site. There are several ruined castles to explore and one, Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg, that was restored in the 19th century after being burnt and looted by Swedish forces in 1633. The Struthof Concetration Camp from the Second World War is a dark reminder of more recent conflicts.
GR5 over the French Alps: high mountain passes, Alpine views, lakes and marmots.
The E2 follows the GR5 from Lake Geneva (Lac Leman) to Nice. This part of the GR5 is justly famous, crossing the length of the French Alps. It takes about 30 days to walk the 645 kilometres and is well provided for with mountain refuges and other lodgings, and a "tart au myrtille" can be enjoyed most days. It is difficult to pick the best section for a shorter hike, however the trail from Lake Geneva to Les Houches is particularly scenic. Although over 80 kilometres, with lots of climbing, the landscape more than justifies the effort. Lac d'Anterne, wild flowers and the view of Mont Blanc as you climb up to Col du Brévent are all highlights of this trip, as is the camaraderie of others walking the same path.
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